Dont forget to ground your SSR (on the mounting points/screws) and the bed or you will get capacitive coupling. This means your bed will be a capacitor, even when the bed is off (but printer plugged in), and have mains voltage in regards to your grounded frame (although with very low current).
I spend two or three days on getting the frame perfectly square and failed. This comment made me pretty anxious. I would say: dont let that happen to you. Try to make it as square as possible, but dont go too far.
I saw some build streams where they never once used a square. I would recommend using one of course, but dont beat yourself up about it. It is nearly impossible to get these profiles really square, the system with these brackets is not good for that. But the real life effect is not big. So dont sweat it and have fun building!
Problem: with the M3 screws from the gantry plates to the rails being loose, the gantry moves very smoothly. But when you tighten them, it makes unpleasent noises. Then do the following:
1. Untighten the M5 screws a little (printed parts to gantry plates), not only should the idlers move very easily, but it also influences the rails. If tightened only a little too hard, the wagon on the rail is tilted and doesnt move freely anymore.
2. If not enough: remove the gantry from the printer and the plates from the gantry. Place the plastic parts (with the M5 screws pushed in, be careful not to let them fall out) on a flat surface. If it wobbles on the surface or has a gap between the surface and the printed parts, do the following: Put a piece of sandpaper on the surface and move the printed part on it, so the underside is sanded and gets flatter. Keep the other printed part on the surface so everything is flat and repeat on the other side. This improved things for me. Although still not as good as with loose screws.
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Dont forget to ground your SSR (on the mounting points/screws) and the bed or you will get capacitive coupling. This means your bed will be a capacitor, even when the bed is off (but printer plugged in), and have mains voltage in regards to your grounded frame (although with very low current).
For the mains wiring, check these two guides:
https://github.com/Spedi-99/How-to-wire-...
https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/elect...
I spend two or three days on getting the frame perfectly square and failed. This comment made me pretty anxious. I would say: dont let that happen to you. Try to make it as square as possible, but dont go too far.
I saw some build streams where they never once used a square. I would recommend using one of course, but dont beat yourself up about it. It is nearly impossible to get these profiles really square, the system with these brackets is not good for that. But the real life effect is not big. So dont sweat it and have fun building!
Adam kindly made a jig to help align the middle part to 47mm. Also works with a 4mm backplate.
https://github.com/AdamV3D/V-Core-3-Vect...
Adam from Vector3D kindly maid some Jigs to make the alignment of the lead screws easier. They work great! Can be found here:
https://github.com/AdamV3D/V-Core-3-Vect...
Problem: with the M3 screws from the gantry plates to the rails being loose, the gantry moves very smoothly. But when you tighten them, it makes unpleasent noises. Then do the following:
1. Untighten the M5 screws a little (printed parts to gantry plates), not only should the idlers move very easily, but it also influences the rails. If tightened only a little too hard, the wagon on the rail is tilted and doesnt move freely anymore.
2. If not enough: remove the gantry from the printer and the plates from the gantry. Place the plastic parts (with the M5 screws pushed in, be careful not to let them fall out) on a flat surface. If it wobbles on the surface or has a gap between the surface and the printed parts, do the following: Put a piece of sandpaper on the surface and move the printed part on it, so the underside is sanded and gets flatter. Keep the other printed part on the surface so everything is flat and repeat on the other side. This improved things for me. Although still not as good as with loose screws.