mark von kanel

i filed a point onto the end of each dowel and tapped them in with a hammer without issue, The point allowed the location of the hole at the back of the block. The pins went in slightly off parallel and the point allowed the dowel to find the hole and centre itself

If you have a base installed the top M6 x 20 need to go in first, there is no way to align t nuts afterwards because the base covers the t slot. you can turn the printer over to do the bottom ones and the slot is clear to line up the t nuts.

So you print L & R on the bits and in this description you reverse them! GET REAL!

What actually needs doing is the printed idler assay needs altering so that the 5mm hex nut sits on the top. you can then insert the cap screw from underneath and add the components one by one, slowly pushing the cap screw upwards to accommodate each component. i used a spare cap screw to do it this way, i then pushed the permanent cap screw down from the top whilst slowly pulling out the screw id used to stack the assay downwards.

doing it this way took a few mins each side

To assemble and get the electronics panel square with the provided brackets is both unnecessary and impossible. Given the poor quality of the brackets, they pull the extrusions out of square every time you tighten them up.

Later you tell us to slacken the bracket off! so what was the point in trying to get it all square in the first place?

The emphasis on getting thing square should initially only be applied when assembling the main frames. i found it easier to assemble the 2 side first and then put on the front and back, squaring up as i went. i then assembled the electronics frame bit by bit inside the main frame (after placing the back pale inside the main frame)