If you have a 3D printer, I'd recommend printing one each of 22mm, 34mm, and 111mm tall cylinders for spacers needed below (or cut dowels to length). Two of the three places you just can't get a normal micrometer in there. But a simple spacer block or something would make it trivial to install.
And check your parts. Mine says M4x16 countersink screws, the bag says them, but cap heads are in the bag. I don't think that's intentional, but I don't know how many kits were made this way. Check yours, and get the right ones coming ahead of time if need be so you don't have delays (yay Amazon overnight orders here in USA).
I found that getting the M3 lock nuts into the plastic wasn't easy - so a tip I used. I used my tiny 1.5mm ball end allen driver to push start it from the "front" - e.g. instead of pulling in from the back (which also works fine - just takes extra screwing), I pushed it in using the driver to align it square. Worked pretty well on these. On the Y axis in the next step it kinda worked ok, but I still had to pull in from behind due to the shape of the part not being flat in the area of the nut.
The parts list here is almost half wrong. Here's the correct list:
2x M6x70 Cap Head Screw
6x 4040 Drop-in T-Nut - M8
2x Square Nut M6
6x M8x22 Cap Head Screw
2x M8x30 Low Profile Cap Head Screw
M8x12 Low Profile Cap Head Screw
Plus a 4040 Drop-in T-Nut - M4.
If you have a 3D printer, I'd recommend printing one each of 22mm, 34mm, and 111mm tall cylinders for spacers needed below (or cut dowels to length). Two of the three places you just can't get a normal micrometer in there. But a simple spacer block or something would make it trivial to install.
And check your parts. Mine says M4x16 countersink screws, the bag says them, but cap heads are in the bag. I don't think that's intentional, but I don't know how many kits were made this way. Check yours, and get the right ones coming ahead of time if need be so you don't have delays (yay Amazon overnight orders here in USA).
It doesn't say it anywhere, but don't forget to pull the M4 nuts into the plastic before proceeding.
I found that getting the M3 lock nuts into the plastic wasn't easy - so a tip I used. I used my tiny 1.5mm ball end allen driver to push start it from the "front" - e.g. instead of pulling in from the back (which also works fine - just takes extra screwing), I pushed it in using the driver to align it square. Worked pretty well on these. On the Y axis in the next step it kinda worked ok, but I still had to pull in from behind due to the shape of the part not being flat in the area of the nut.
Which direction for the wires on the motor to point?
Which direction for the wires on the motor to point?
Which direction for the wires on the motor to point?
This step needs 8 of the 3mm spacers. 4 for the first pass of Step 6, 4 more for the second pass.