I believe the instructions are correct, but the names of the parts might be misleading. Perhaps they were named when designing the standard corexy belt path, and just reused with the hybrid kit
My el-cheapo-but-still-reasonable one-push crimpers did not work for the microJST, so I had to use the Engineer PA-09. On PA-09, I used 1.4 for the conductor and 1.9 for the sleeve. Use the crimp connectors for the micro JST that came with EBB42, the ones for JST XH2.54 will not fit.
I started by pushing the aluminum spacers into the printed part one by one, after which it was easy to drop the printed part and the spacers over the screws.
Shameless plug: For some piece of mind I use retainers that prevent the M5x85 from falling. Model 968241 on printables, seems I cannot post a link.
I find it easier to build the second bearing stack (steps 26&27) before putting on the plate
I believe the instructions are correct, but the names of the parts might be misleading. Perhaps they were named when designing the standard corexy belt path, and just reused with the hybrid kit
Should the plate be ”Motor P. Up. L”? Otherwise the countersink bore is on the wrong side.
The bearings might come with some grease residue. You might want to clean the surfaces that will touch the belt
My el-cheapo-but-still-reasonable one-push crimpers did not work for the microJST, so I had to use the Engineer PA-09. On PA-09, I used 1.4 for the conductor and 1.9 for the sleeve. Use the crimp connectors for the micro JST that came with EBB42, the ones for JST XH2.54 will not fit.
Meant to say x-rail. And watch out for automatic wire strippers with the thermistor wire, at least my Knipex cut some conductor strands as well.
Perhaps this could have been done before attaching the hotend to the y-rail?
I started by pushing the aluminum spacers into the printed part one by one, after which it was easy to drop the printed part and the spacers over the screws.
Should probably say ”Go to step 3” instead of ”2”.