What is this information: V-Core 4 400 and 500 ONLY 110V?
Without an explanation, this is totally useless information. In Austria we have standard 230V, and the power supply unit only allows the input to be switched. If I set this to 110V and insert the plug into the socket on our 230V mains supply, the power supply unit burns out. This information makes absolutely no sense, is confusing and DANGEROUS! If I were to do it the way you write it here, at least the power supply unit would burn out, and in the worst case, other parts of the printer would also be damaged.
I have now been able to remove the screw. The holes had a diameter of 2.1mm, far too small for an M3 screw, so it got stuck and the hex in the head was broken out. The holes were widened with a stationary drill and a 2.8mm drill bit. This allowed the remaining screw to be turned through the toolhead front printed part and fixed in place. The other screw was destroyed during removal and had to be replaced.
In my case, the holes in the toolhead front printed part were so narrow that the M3x40 Countersink Screw was damaged when it was screwed in. No further assembly is therefore possible. A precision mechanic's screwdriver with bit insert was used, i.e. anything other than a tool that applies a lot of force.
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What is this information: V-Core 4 400 and 500 ONLY 110V?
Without an explanation, this is totally useless information. In Austria we have standard 230V, and the power supply unit only allows the input to be switched. If I set this to 110V and insert the plug into the socket on our 230V mains supply, the power supply unit burns out. This information makes absolutely no sense, is confusing and DANGEROUS! If I were to do it the way you write it here, at least the power supply unit would burn out, and in the worst case, other parts of the printer would also be damaged.
I have now been able to remove the screw. The holes had a diameter of 2.1mm, far too small for an M3 screw, so it got stuck and the hex in the head was broken out. The holes were widened with a stationary drill and a 2.8mm drill bit. This allowed the remaining screw to be turned through the toolhead front printed part and fixed in place. The other screw was destroyed during removal and had to be replaced.
In my case, the holes in the toolhead front printed part were so narrow that the M3x40 Countersink Screw was damaged when it was screwed in. No further assembly is therefore possible. A precision mechanic's screwdriver with bit insert was used, i.e. anything other than a tool that applies a lot of force.