It would be good to add a diagram of WHICH hole to run the USB through…. I had used the heated bed hole in the Mains compartment before getting further down this guide, which has things going the other direction. So…. going to leave it as is unless I run into interference issues, but would rather have run it properly the first time.
Spent a bit looking for tabs to use for alignment before I noticed the indents. The language could be clarified that you are looking for an indent, not a tab that’s sticking out.
For me, it was as stated. Separate bags for the single M4x8 and the single chicago bolt part. Guess it’s going out both ways? Either that or they changed how it works awfully recently.
Feels like this wire routing would have been far, far easier to accomplish prior to doing any X gantry or bed mounting, leaving the wires laying on top of the bottom plate.
I think it would be helpful to say “Hybrid and IDEX” here, not just Hybrid. Same motors in the same places, but helpful from a readability standpoint. And, of course, it does say that down in step 50.
I think it’d be a useful design feature to add holes to the rear panel to allow access to the power supply and SSR screws. Would make life quite a bit easier if I ever have to replace them for little added cost to the panel. Either that or a different mount mechanism for the PS and SSR (lord knows the SSR needs one), but the PS is already a fairly tight fit.
I checked the CAD for IDEX before doing mine. IDEX uses the same umbilical mount (and only the one). It was pretty hard to get both wires in, but managed it with pliers. The bottom of the channel is only a layer or two, so shoved until both wires poked out and then shoved them back into the part slightly. Then tightened the set screw. FAR easier to do with the mount removed from the chassis.
As a thought, rather than jumping around in steps, perhaps this step could just be done all at once up above? Probably could do the same with other identical bits like the hotend prep.
Adding this in case it’s missed above: 20mm spacer works if no LDO Smart Sensor installed. If you have the smart sensor, you’ll want a 16mm spacer. My kit came with only one of those vs 2x 20mm.
It would be good to add a diagram of WHICH hole to run the USB through…. I had used the heated bed hole in the Mains compartment before getting further down this guide, which has things going the other direction. So…. going to leave it as is unless I run into interference issues, but would rather have run it properly the first time.
Spent a bit looking for tabs to use for alignment before I noticed the indents. The language could be clarified that you are looking for an indent, not a tab that’s sticking out.
For me, it was as stated. Separate bags for the single M4x8 and the single chicago bolt part. Guess it’s going out both ways? Either that or they changed how it works awfully recently.
Concur. It’s a really tight fit with all those cables from the toolheads to manage. Or maybe IDEX just needs a deeper management trough overall.
Feels like this wire routing would have been far, far easier to accomplish prior to doing any X gantry or bed mounting, leaving the wires laying on top of the bottom plate.
I think it would be helpful to say “Hybrid and IDEX” here, not just Hybrid. Same motors in the same places, but helpful from a readability standpoint. And, of course, it does say that down in step 50.
I think it’d be a useful design feature to add holes to the rear panel to allow access to the power supply and SSR screws. Would make life quite a bit easier if I ever have to replace them for little added cost to the panel. Either that or a different mount mechanism for the PS and SSR (lord knows the SSR needs one), but the PS is already a fairly tight fit.
I checked the CAD for IDEX before doing mine. IDEX uses the same umbilical mount (and only the one). It was pretty hard to get both wires in, but managed it with pliers. The bottom of the channel is only a layer or two, so shoved until both wires poked out and then shoved them back into the part slightly. Then tightened the set screw. FAR easier to do with the mount removed from the chassis.
As a thought, rather than jumping around in steps, perhaps this step could just be done all at once up above? Probably could do the same with other identical bits like the hotend prep.
Adding this in case it’s missed above: 20mm spacer works if no LDO Smart Sensor installed. If you have the smart sensor, you’ll want a 16mm spacer. My kit came with only one of those vs 2x 20mm.
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