These M3x35 cap heads have a very small shoulder. Once again, easy to over-tighten. After the first one, I’m going to be opening the hole in the the PETG part a tiny bit so the screw goes through with clearance, so you get a better feel of when you are tightening down on the shoulder as opposed to just self-tapping the PETG..
Still need to know which way the wind blows.. :)
(Just make sure you always have a shim each side of the bearing..)
Put the mini-shim between the two spacers, as the spacer is easier to position as a last piece..
The two toothed idlers have a bearing with smaller OD so you may get some rubbing if you use the larger shims..
Lol. Struggled here, as it took me way too long to figure out two of my M3x18 screws were completely threadless.. :)
Recommend you orient the motor wiring to point towards the rear of the machine..
It seems to me easier to add a panel below the bottom extrusions, which can be easily added after the build.
Apart from visible motor wiring, can anyone think of a downside to this?
I’m going this route, so let me know anyone who needs the STEP or DXF for this..
I think in general where there is a single corner joint shown like this it would be helpful to have an arrow indicating the front of the machine.. :)
These M3x35 cap heads have a very small shoulder. Once again, easy to over-tighten. After the first one, I’m going to be opening the hole in the the PETG part a tiny bit so the screw goes through with clearance, so you get a better feel of when you are tightening down on the shoulder as opposed to just self-tapping the PETG..
Take care also not to over-tighten the countersink screws, as you can crunch the PETG parts. I know this because, reasons..
Page 1 of 2
Next