Bill

I found a screwdriver style 5.5mm hex nut driver worked really well for fully pressing in the magnets.

I have no idea what this precisely cut piece of foam does at all.

You could put the endstop in much later and not have to deal with it falling off.

Easy to overtighten set screw and pull out the heat set partially, be careful

They meant remove it after the board is successfully flashed

The IDEX hardware pack contains a second 1M length of piano wire (and umbilical cover) fyi

Hold the 4mm nut in plyers and thread the dogpoint in (ccw rotation) with it's socket leading towards the non locking side until about 4mm protrudes from the nylon locking side. Then thread this assembly in from the bottom of the steel bed (opposite side from countersinks) and then adjust dogpoint position relative to nut so that only it protrudes from the top side when the nut is tightened down well at the bottom. Only the constant small diameter of the dogpoint should be above the top surface of the plate.

I foiled Ratrig's evil plans and had my 300 bed drilled and tapped for 4mm threads at a local machine shop so I could install the flex bed alignment stops.

The problem is the threaded area of the print needs to be printed at .1mm layer height. On my prints (IDEX) both had many of the threads not even connected to the print. Just loose strands of plastic not adhered to anything. That's because at .2mm layers or larger they have nothing to connect to on the previous layer.

Or if Ratrig made the walls thicker, they could just print the hole to slightly over the ID of the thread and then the user could self tap the bowden pass through connector. This would not require the fine layer height.

I guess one of my metal corners was narrower than the other three as I had to remove about 2mm off the thickness of the trim prints in order for them to tighten on the corners. The centers were making contact and still the trim was very loose on the metal corner even with the 3x16 screws fully tight.