Removing the plastic wrap from the lead screws may be the second hardest step in a V-Core build after squaring the frame. It's definitely the most annoying lol. If anyone has any tips for how to get it off easily please post them for future builders.
THANK YOU @beeg0egg . The zip tie trick is slick! If it isn't working, use a slightly larger zip tie and make sure that it turns around the bearing stack instead of disappearing into the extrusion. Then simply line the belt up between the end of the zip tie and the bearing stack and like magic it will make the corner with a little push.
Be sure to see the comments in Step 33. The slider part may need to be sanded down a bit in order to be able to slide in the EVA housing. I learned it needed to after I had everything assembled and had to take the EVA half apart to fix it.
I did not notice the comments from @lhb and @six until I was wondering how to get the jammed tension slider out of the slot. I ended up having to take the EVA half apart to be able to pry it out :( But then I was able to sand it down until it moved well in the slot.
Two M3x10 screws made it a lot easier to adjust the height of the probe without worrying about unscrewing the screws too far and the nuts falling into the hot end shroud. There's plenty of room for the longer screw.
I was able to get the 35mm screws to work. As @susticle mentioned, the screw heads sink into the front. I did have to dry fit the front into the groove under the extruder with a bit of light force a few times to get the screw holes to line up. Make sure the groove and the front are clear of print waste and it will fit and the 35mm screws will work.
Removing the plastic wrap from the lead screws may be the second hardest step in a V-Core build after squaring the frame. It's definitely the most annoying lol. If anyone has any tips for how to get it off easily please post them for future builders.
THANK YOU @beeg0egg . The zip tie trick is slick! If it isn't working, use a slightly larger zip tie and make sure that it turns around the bearing stack instead of disappearing into the extrusion. Then simply line the belt up between the end of the zip tie and the bearing stack and like magic it will make the corner with a little push.
The diagram shows 16 screws and T Nuts but there are only 8 as the image in Step 10 correctly shows.
Like the prior step, there appear to be six M6x12 screws to fasten, not five. I will report back if this turns out to be wrong.
There are six M6x12 screws to be secured, not five.
Be sure to see the comments in Step 33. The slider part may need to be sanded down a bit in order to be able to slide in the EVA housing. I learned it needed to after I had everything assembled and had to take the EVA half apart to fix it.
I did not notice the comments from @lhb and @six until I was wondering how to get the jammed tension slider out of the slot. I ended up having to take the EVA half apart to be able to pry it out :( But then I was able to sand it down until it moved well in the slot.
Two M3x10 screws made it a lot easier to adjust the height of the probe without worrying about unscrewing the screws too far and the nuts falling into the hot end shroud. There's plenty of room for the longer screw.
I was able to get the 35mm screws to work. As @susticle mentioned, the screw heads sink into the front. I did have to dry fit the front into the groove under the extruder with a bit of light force a few times to get the screw holes to line up. Make sure the groove and the front are clear of print waste and it will fit and the 35mm screws will work.
In the kit I received, the 4x M3x20 button heads were replaced with cap heads.
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