holy &&^&^$^ $@$* it's a nidec now and like state before the blue one, so the white t of this cable goes to the blue!! bu I can t get the pwm it's 100% on all the time, with 64db it is wayyyy too noisy.somone exchange it ? someone manage to get a config working with pwm?
If you’ve failed or lost your connector, I’ve finally figured out which type it is. The previous documentation is incorrect and cost me several bucks trying to order the correct size. The EBB42 endstop connector uses a PHA-2 connector and not a JST 1.25(micro jst)
This document contains misleading information, so don’t make the same mistake I did. If you need to order a new crimp set or pre-crimped wires, just order PHA-2 pre-crimped wire.
The AC wiring explanation for the heat bed is incorrect. Follow these steps:
White Wire:
Cut the two white wire connectors.
Crimp fork spade connectors onto them.One wire connects to the SSR (Solid State Relay) at the left bottom terminal.The other connects to the 230V AC terminal of the power supply.
Ground Wire:
The yellow wire must be grounded correctly:Crimp a fork spade connector on one end and connect it to the ground terminal of the power supply.On the other end, attach a round ring connector. Place this ring connector between the black screw (installed on the bottom/back of the heat bed) and the bed.
This ensures the full bed is grounded.
AC Heater Wiring:
The SSR switches the AC connection, allowing the silicon heater (white wires) to receive power from the 230V AC supply.
be carefull its not 1.25gh neither (learned at my cost...), they are company who sell specifically those shitt cable here for instance : https://3dkatten.eu/products/micro-jst-1...
ok to be clear (after crushed the whole after mutliple trials..)the cable provide is a jst 2.54 3 wires, you need to pass to eb42 which is a JST 1.25mm pitch which is super fragile and not easy to use .
If you want to do it you need like an iwiss/icrimp 2820M with super small die : 0.7 and 1.0 mm ,
But it's an hell you will propably destroy it ifyou ar enot use to those super small size. The far more easier way is to buy pre crimp 5 wire JST 1.25 and put the 3 JST-xh 2.54 expected at teh other end way way way more easier.
Don't even knwo how ratrig provide the esier crump and expect you to manage this specific difficult small crimp despite you can buy easily pre cirmp wire??
ok found it's in the printed part and it's part where the parts are still onder theirs rafts , si it's a solid square piece of 5-6cm when you look after
holy &&^&^$^ $@$* it's a nidec now and like state before the blue one, so the white t of this cable goes to the blue!! bu I can t get the pwm it's 100% on all the time, with 64db it is wayyyy too noisy.somone exchange it ? someone manage to get a config working with pwm?
https://ratrig.com/fan-4028-axial-nidec-...
Clarification on the EBB42 Endstop Connector
If you’ve failed or lost your connector, I’ve finally figured out which type it is. The previous documentation is incorrect and cost me several bucks trying to order the correct size. The EBB42 endstop connector uses a PHA-2 connector and not a JST 1.25(micro jst)
This document contains misleading information, so don’t make the same mistake I did. If you need to order a new crimp set or pre-crimped wires, just order PHA-2 pre-crimped wire.
The AC wiring explanation for the heat bed is incorrect. Follow these steps:
White Wire:
Cut the two white wire connectors.
Crimp fork spade connectors onto them.One wire connects to the SSR (Solid State Relay) at the left bottom terminal.The other connects to the 230V AC terminal of the power supply.
Ground Wire:
The yellow wire must be grounded correctly:Crimp a fork spade connector on one end and connect it to the ground terminal of the power supply.On the other end, attach a round ring connector. Place this ring connector between the black screw (installed on the bottom/back of the heat bed) and the bed.
This ensures the full bed is grounded.
AC Heater Wiring:
The SSR switches the AC connection, allowing the silicon heater (white wires) to receive power from the 230V AC supply.
clearly the worst part , the documentation iss full of error , comment help a lot
https://www.digikey.be/en/products/detai... seem the rigth one
be carefull its not 1.25gh neither (learned at my cost...), they are company who sell specifically those shitt cable here for instance : https://3dkatten.eu/products/micro-jst-1...
ok to be clear (after crushed the whole after mutliple trials..)the cable provide is a jst 2.54 3 wires, you need to pass to eb42 which is a JST 1.25mm pitch which is super fragile and not easy to use .
If you want to do it you need like an iwiss/icrimp 2820M with super small die : 0.7 and 1.0 mm ,
But it's an hell you will propably destroy it ifyou ar enot use to those super small size. The far more easier way is to buy pre crimp 5 wire JST 1.25 and put the 3 JST-xh 2.54 expected at teh other end way way way more easier.
Don't even knwo how ratrig provide the esier crump and expect you to manage this specific difficult small crimp despite you can buy easily pre cirmp wire??
i agree even if i crimp some and well toolled those micro a re pure $@$* to handle
ok found it's in the printed part and it's part where the parts are still onder theirs rafts , si it's a solid square piece of 5-6cm when you look after
Page 1 of 3
Next