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joshua43214
@joshua43214
joshua43214
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| Member Since 07/13/2021 | |
| 1 | Reputation |
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| Member Since 07/13/2021 | |
Shouldn’t the m5 nuts be m5 Nylocks?
m3x10 is wrong for LGX. You should add a table for supported options
I recommend doing this last. If you do this first, you will just be fighting tippy wobble in the next steps.
Attach the magnet to the top first while the plate lays nice and stable. Don’t trim the magnet to fit the holes yet.
Flip over and attach the heater pad, I suggest running a bead of high-temp silicone RTV around the edge to make double sure it does not detach. I also recommend attaching insulating material at this point as well. I used the common mats purchased on Ebay, the balls are tall enough that the mat will clear the arms.
Last, attach the balls, only trim the magnet if you can’t squeeze the screws past it.
get the alignment roughly right, then loosen the screws that hold the lead screw nut and make sure the lead screw is properly aligned with the coupling. Not doing this will drastically reduce the life of both coupling and lead screw nut, and could cause artifacts in the print.
The bed is just a standard aluminum tooling plate. They are pretty inexpensive, and available pretty much any place in the world that has industry. Just search the internet for “cast aluminum tooling plate.” Mic6 is the tradename for the Alcoa version (this is the industry standard, buy this if you do not trust yourself to buy something different), but any plate from a reputable supplier will probably be just as good provided it is advertised as being stable. The balls are just threaded steel balls, nothing special, same for the magnets.
Even easier than feeding a zip tie through, is to feed the other belt through the difficult side so the teeth mesh with the difficult belt. Then pull the other belt back through, and the difficult belt will be pull along with it.
This is actually really easy if you ignore these terrible instructions. First, like David said, make sure you thread the belt as you assemble. The trick is to assemble the idler stack unpside down on the bench, then invert it onto the printer frame. The shims are easy to control, so only moderate care is needed to keep them in place. A bit of extra finesse, and you can install the sideways t-nut on the bench as well.
I measured the gap between the frames from the downloaded STEP file. The gap is 47mm between the frames, so the gap between the frame and panel should be 43mm assuming you are using a 4mm panel.