david wilson

One of the heads on the screws was stripped, no way I could get it to loosen. I was able to remove the other with no problem. I tired to turn the V6-style adapter and it would just turn with the one screw removed and the other still tight. I kept working with it and finally got it to spin and was able to remove the stripped screw.

See my comment on the previous step - put the belt in before the screws

This is very hard due to the lack of space around the M4 Locking nut. I loosely fastened the side with the open end and slid the SSR under it then used forceps to hold the nut to get it started on the other screw. Once they were both started, I used a open end wrench held verticaly to try and hold the nut while tightening from the bottom. Please make sure you have the SSR oriented the correct way

The colors used in the diagrams are con fusing especially the first. The light green and the aqua are different wires. I thought they were the same color and same wire. I'm old and not very good with colors!

Samuel, you are correct! This is very confusing it should state these need to be removed.

It should say to remove the two plates now - you will need them off later and this will save a lot of confusion

these should be in place if you are doing the 3.0 to 3.1 upgrade

M8 wrench for the nuts, make sure you don’t loose any parts

use a M8 wrench (spanner) and be very careful not to loose parts of the stack

if you are upgrading from 3.0 to 3.1 most of these steps are skipped. I’m using my old endstops will update if that is a problem.

I skipped to step 7