Matt Modica

I would recommend putting a dab of hot glue on top of the hex nuts after you place them into position. This will help them stay in position for future steps.

The M3x6 cap screws were not long enough for the extruder. I had to use M3x8.

I found it easier to use a long needle nose pliers to insert the M3x12 cap screws into the rear bed arm assembly and push them into the holes with a long hex wrench. If you try to go through the holes as marked, you run the risk of the cap screw falling off the wrench before it seats into the other hole.

If you have not already done so on this part, place the entire frame assembly on the floor so you can easily see and get to the area to route the belts and place this top assembly.

Excellent advice and agree - flip the frame on the front end and those 3030 nuts line right up. Be extra careful not to tighten these cap screws and it is very easy to crack the core XY idler printed part!

I did not make the electronics panel in advance and rather than creating from the designs in GitHub, I simply cut a couple pieces of 5mm styrene, carefully measured and made mounting holes all around the styrene and used the M6 cap screws and larger washers to attach.

I would recommend wearing rubber or nitrile gloves when working with the cap screws and washers throughout this first guide. The cap screws come from the factory with oil on them that can be annoying to remove from bare fingers.