If you run the gantry all the way to the end of its travel as you clamp everything down they will be close enough for now.
The lock collars spin on the lead screw... as in... back off your alan key (grub screw) just a bit more and you will find that they slide along the shaft rather than travel up and down the lead screw... which means you can spin them in place to get the grub screw facing out while still pressing tight against the stackup of bearing and shim.
As for grub screw vs clamping. Clamping is essentially a circumferentially equal force on the lead screw while a grub screw provides only a single point of contact matched by the clamping force opposite to the grub screw. So essentially two points of contact vs 360 minus the small gap for the clamp up kerf. (I am certain there's a proper name for that slot... someone educate me...) The clamping force on the lead screw from the way it is currently engineered to the suggested grub screw only is much greater and thus more secure.
The 2040 profile you are looking for is EXACTLY the length of the x axis Cbeam. There are three in my kit that are a few mils short and one that is exact.
Seconded re Torque wrench values. Although one could probably go look them up based on the thread and shank size, provided information is more straightforward than researched information. Also, if you are looking up standard torques for these bolts... the torque values are given for clamping up on metal (I assume) not plastic.
Expect to run a drill bit through the bolt holes to clean them up enough to get the bolt through.
How about we explore threaded heat inserts as a super easy solution? you could easily sink a 3mm insert into the outside of this part and just wind a 3mm screw through it to grab the probe… in fact… pretty sure I have a 3mm insert around here somewhere…. standby for results…
A light sanding on the gripper block with 220, especially on the long edges worked wonders from my first attempt to the second attempt. Literally just a few passes to chamfer the long edges seemed to do it. Slid in by hand with little effort compared to the first one going in which I thought would crack the housing!
you can remove the bolt and go in the hole on an angle with an Allen key and gently tap the block out. Alternate angling up and down and very gentle taps should do it.
Save some of the individual strands of plastic that break away… You will use them later to put your EVA together to wedge the M3 nuts in place to keep them from falling out as you assemble the HotEnd. Some of the nuts are press fit… some are sloppy and just fall out when you rotate the part. Put a strand of plastic down the recessed nut hole before you push the nut in (or pull it in on the end of a long M3 screw) this will wedge the nut in place without compromising the build
If you run the gantry all the way to the end of its travel as you clamp everything down they will be close enough for now.
The lock collars spin on the lead screw... as in... back off your alan key (grub screw) just a bit more and you will find that they slide along the shaft rather than travel up and down the lead screw... which means you can spin them in place to get the grub screw facing out while still pressing tight against the stackup of bearing and shim.
As for grub screw vs clamping. Clamping is essentially a circumferentially equal force on the lead screw while a grub screw provides only a single point of contact matched by the clamping force opposite to the grub screw. So essentially two points of contact vs 360 minus the small gap for the clamp up kerf. (I am certain there's a proper name for that slot... someone educate me...) The clamping force on the lead screw from the way it is currently engineered to the suggested grub screw only is much greater and thus more secure.
The 2040 profile you are looking for is EXACTLY the length of the x axis Cbeam. There are three in my kit that are a few mils short and one that is exact.
Seconded re Torque wrench values. Although one could probably go look them up based on the thread and shank size, provided information is more straightforward than researched information. Also, if you are looking up standard torques for these bolts... the torque values are given for clamping up on metal (I assume) not plastic.
Expect to run a drill bit through the bolt holes to clean them up enough to get the bolt through.
Success!!! sooooo easy….
How about we explore threaded heat inserts as a super easy solution? you could easily sink a 3mm insert into the outside of this part and just wind a 3mm screw through it to grab the probe… in fact… pretty sure I have a 3mm insert around here somewhere…. standby for results…
A light sanding on the gripper block with 220, especially on the long edges worked wonders from my first attempt to the second attempt. Literally just a few passes to chamfer the long edges seemed to do it. Slid in by hand with little effort compared to the first one going in which I thought would crack the housing!
you can remove the bolt and go in the hole on an angle with an Allen key and gently tap the block out. Alternate angling up and down and very gentle taps should do it.
Save some of the individual strands of plastic that break away… You will use them later to put your EVA together to wedge the M3 nuts in place to keep them from falling out as you assemble the HotEnd. Some of the nuts are press fit… some are sloppy and just fall out when you rotate the part. Put a strand of plastic down the recessed nut hole before you push the nut in (or pull it in on the end of a long M3 screw) this will wedge the nut in place without compromising the build
Neodeimium Magnets. This is the way…
Very tight fit. I guess we will see what happens over time unless I chicken out before then and just print new ones with a bigger countersink.
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