this is a tight squeeze. carve out any excess/bridge. stick a m3x20 screw in thru the base, thread it to the nut and SLOWLY tighten until the nut cant go further into the socket. you will risk breaking the area outside the nut
an extremely specific amount of tube. the guide does not specify but the tube in the Eva hardware pack is meant to be cut. i used calipers and whittled the tube down from around 45mm to a snug 3 fit between the calipers, set at 43.7mm
It might require some jamming/carving to get the R/L joiners attached to the extrusion. Dont jam too hard at risk of damaging joiner. I broke a joiner by using a rubber hammer to hit one end with the other on the bench, then I had to reprint.
Make sure you can get joiners on the extrusion first. Then, remove the joiners and put all the square t-nuts in the extrusion. Then, attach the R/L joiners. You can tell they are pushed in all the way when the t-nuts are aligned if you peek through the holes.
the diameter of a 1/8 hex key is 3.125mm, .125mm higher than 3mm. If you have been using calipers and trouble measuring the gap this might be helpful for reference. You can position the hex key so it will slightly be unable to go under the pulley
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It's recommended to learn some skills before diving in. As someone who just completed build for the vcore 3.1 kit:
- you will need to learn how to crimp, including regular circuitry, jst and dupont connectors once you get to the last big step wiring
- make sure to get "long" hex keys, and a set of short. you will want ones with one long end compared to shorter keys.
- you will need to learn how to make something "square" for the frame (mini-boss) buy a thick, big engineers square.
- have a good set of calipers and understand how to take different measurements different ways.
- get some labels, or a paint marker with shiny ink for marking things.
the superpinda came with two extensions that clip right in and reach far enough for the 500
its not clear which way the fan should be installed
ignore the ridges on the part, teeth should be outward
this is a tight squeeze. carve out any excess/bridge. stick a m3x20 screw in thru the base, thread it to the nut and SLOWLY tighten until the nut cant go further into the socket. you will risk breaking the area outside the nut
an extremely specific amount of tube. the guide does not specify but the tube in the Eva hardware pack is meant to be cut. i used calipers and whittled the tube down from around 45mm to a snug 3 fit between the calipers, set at 43.7mm
My extruder came with flat square nuts already installed, they didn't come with the kit
You can also pull the belt through with a 1/16 hex key by sticking the curved part through and fish-hooking it
Agreed with Nicholas comment as well.
It might require some jamming/carving to get the R/L joiners attached to the extrusion. Dont jam too hard at risk of damaging joiner. I broke a joiner by using a rubber hammer to hit one end with the other on the bench, then I had to reprint.
Make sure you can get joiners on the extrusion first. Then, remove the joiners and put all the square t-nuts in the extrusion. Then, attach the R/L joiners. You can tell they are pushed in all the way when the t-nuts are aligned if you peek through the holes.
the diameter of a 1/8 hex key is 3.125mm, .125mm higher than 3mm. If you have been using calipers and trouble measuring the gap this might be helpful for reference. You can position the hex key so it will slightly be unable to go under the pulley