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256
I took my gantry off again during this process as I noticed the right x-axis gantry fastener was not sitting flat on the right XY Joiner Plate. To correct this I put the gantry, with both gantry fasteners attached, on a flat table and put sandpaper under the right side gantry fastener. I then moved the right side gantry fastener back and forth on the sandpaper to flatten the bottom which made it sit flat on the table.
After having reattached it to the two Joiner Plates, I still had to work a bit with how tight I bolted the gantry down, which ended up not being very much, to avoid the carriages gripping the rail so much that the movement became uneven as I tested moving the gantry on the Y-axis.
If you choose, like I did, to use thread locker (the low strength type which allows you to loosen bolts in the future) on the bolts, please make sure to only apply this to the side of the bolts as you screw then into the T-Nuts. Do NOT drip the thread locker into the T-Nuts. I say this from personal painful experience :-(
Because as this might seem like the (genius) easy way to apply the thread locker, it turned into a nightmare for me as the thread locker dried before I screwed the bolts entirely through the T-Nut. So I had to take all the 142 bolts out of all the linear rails and use a drill, which can cut 3mm threads into metal, to drill out all 142 T-Nuts. %#*@ that was some sad re-work :-)
I also struggled a bit here. The X-Endstop part is rather flimsy, and I followed Murray’s suggestion to put a shim underneath to support the end stop as to bot break it apart when tightening the M5 bolt. Like many others I also needed to use a 14mm long M5 as the 12mm provided couldn’t reach the square nut in the extrusion.
Thanks for the top Georg. I ended up doing a lot of sanding as it seemed like I had printed the plastic parts at an angle (which is likely as the printer I used was not high quality). But ultimately, I succeeded in making the parts flat, so when mounted on the metal holders they didn’t force the rail carriages to in rest crookedly on the Y-rails.
You can find the CAD for the panel in this OnShape repository - https://cad.onshape.com/documents/8e6758...
As mentioned, by Raj Dewan and Luca Lusetti, make sure to use M5x12 and 3030 M5 to fasten the panel as you will not have enough M6x12 and 3030 M6 otherwise (I just purchased additional M6x12 and 3030 M6 to be able to proceed with by build).
Regarding the panel thickness, I recommend that you get a 3 MM panel. I bought a 4 MM Poly Carbonate panel and found that the brackets holding the two motors needed to be jammed in because of my 4 MM panel…
In https://discord.com/channels/58218737152... there was a discussion on which shims to use and the conclusion was that the four tiny shims are for the toothed idlers and for this assembly the slightly larger shims (which are 8mm in diameter) should be used.
The text for this step should be made much more instructive on this.
I’m using a torque screwdriver to tighten when bolting brackets to the extrusions and have found that 2,5NM seems appropriate for this.
I’m using a torque screwdriver to tighten when bolting the panel to the extrusions and have found that 2,5NM seems appropriate for this.