Kenneth Jensen

Took me 2 minutes this way:

Insert something that loosely fits into the hole for the pinda - like an 6mm allen key, the end of a drill bit or whatever. Retract the drill bit/allen key and put the nut on top of it. Insert a longer than needed M3 into the hole in the side and lower the allen key until you can catch the thread of the nut with the long M3. Then simply pull the nut into the hole and replace the long screw with the M3X8.

There is no (new) guide for tensioning belts. Have a look in V3, step 17 for info:

08. EVA 2 Carriage: BMG + E3D V6

Be VERY careful when inserting the M5 nut into the grabber. It breaks easily!

I totally agree with Roberto. I simply used a quick grip to insert them, but it’s so much easier to do it before installation. Be aware of the correct orientation of the bearing. The flange is to be on top(opposite side of the screws) but this is easy to see in the instructions below.

If you are as stupid or unlucky as I was you’ll pull the carriage over the end of the linear rail while trying to install the rear arm ;) I recomment putting a piece of tape on the end of the rail to avoid that. It only takes a few minutes to find the small steel balls and put them into the carriage again , but it still make you feel less intelligent and you are screwed if you cannot find all the balls.

+1 for the zip tie trick. Worked perfectly from the very first try.

Be sure to orient the t-nuts correctly

And as the Y carriages also CAN slide off the rail it might be a good idea to fastem them with tape for now.

I recommend using glowes of some sort when handling the rails. They corrode easily

Do not install any hex nuts in any part until the instreuctions asks you to do it - some times not all slots are to be used, and some times it is a lock nut that must be used.