12. Electronics

BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1

Raspberry Pi

USB A to USB C Cable

Insert this jumper, allowing the board to receive power from the Raspberry Pi. Remove all other jumpers from the board.

5V Power supply - smartphone charger for example (minimum 3 AMP is recommended)

It is heavily recommended that you flash your board and make sure it is detected in the configurator before you plug in your stepper drivers and start connecting your wiring. - Check RatOs documentation

Remove the highlighted jumper as it will no longer be required.

If your board flashed successfully you can proceed with the guide.

If your kit has a 120mm skip this Step and keep following the guide.

If your kit has 50x15 axial fans, Identify your electronics enclosure kit

If your corners are aluminium, you have the aluminium enclosure - Click here to follow the dedicated guide.

You can also check your kit SKU- HW3810MK

If your corners are printed parts, you have the steel enclosure, Click here to follow the dedicated guide.

You can also check your kit SKU- HW3916MK

vc4_enclosure_alum_lid

vc4_enclosure_alum_base

vc4_enclosure_alum_bottom

vc4_enclosure_alum_left

vc4_enclosure_alum_top

vc4_enclosure_alum_right

vc4_electronics_corner

29x M3 Heat Insert

31x M3x6 Countersink screw

32x M3x6 Button head screw

4x M4x10 Countersink screw

2x M4x12 Countersink screw

4x Hex Standoffs 35mm

vc4_enclosure_alum_base

2x M3x6 Countersink screw

vc4_electronics_corner

Thread the M3x6 countersink screws to the heat inserts on the vc4_electronics_corner.

Assemble the components as shown, and ensure the vc4_enclosure_steel_base is correctly oriented and the countersunk screw is inserted into the countersink groove.

Repeat the previous Steps and assemble the remaining corners.

vc4_enclosure_steel_top and right

4x M3x6 Button Head Screw for each panel

Assemble the enclosure components as shown, making sure the panels are correctly oriented.

vc4_enclosure_steel_left

vc4_enclosure_steel_bottom

4x M3x6 Button Head Screw for each plate

Assemble the enclosure components as shown, making sure the panels are correctly oriented.

15A fuse

Fuse Holder

IEC

2x M3x12 Cap Head Screws

2x M3 locking hex nut

IEC

2x M3x12 Countersink screw

Fuse holder

2x M3 Locking nut

Fuse holder nut

4x M2.5x6 Cap Head Screw

4x M3x8 Cap Head Screw

26x M3 Heat Insert

vc4_adapter_octopus printed part

2x vc4_adapter_rpi printed part

3x vc4_cable_guide_5 assembly

vc4_cable_guide_4 assembly

vc4_cable_guide_cross

Insert the countersink screws into the indicated holes, ensuring that the picture is oriented with the countersink holes facing you.

vc4_adapter_octopus assembly

2x vc4_adapter_rpi assembly

Insert the screws from the bottom, passing them through the panel to tighten them into the heat inserts on the supports.

Insert the countersink screws into the indicated holes, ensuring that the picture is oriented with the countersink holes facing you.

10x M3x6 Countersink screws

vc4_cable_guide_cross

vc4_cable_guide_4 assembly

3x vc4_cable_guide_5 assembly

Insert the screws from the bottom, passing them through the panel to tighten them into the heat inserts on the cable guide parts.

Insert the countersink screws into the indicated holes, ensuring that the picture is oriented with the countersink holes facing you.

5x M3x6 Countersink screws

5x Hex standoff - steel - M3x35

Fan grille 120mm

Fan axial 120x15

4x Self tapping screw - Fam - 12mm

4x Self tapping screw - Fam - 12mm

Fan grille 120mm

Fan axial 120x15

Insert the screws from the top, through the fan grille and the enclosure lid and thread them to the fan body.

SSR relay

2x M5 Locking hex nut

Raspberry pi

Octopus V1.1

Power Supply Weho - 250Watt 24V - Fanless

Electronics Enclosure assembly

SSR 40A480VAC Solid State Relay

2x M4x12 Countersink screws

Gently open the SSR Relay tabs to access the mounting holes.

2x M4 Nylon Locking Nut

Tighten the screws to secure the SSR Relay to the electronics enclosure

BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1

Remove all the jumpers on the board before starting. Insert the jumpers onto the highlighted pins.

UART mode - placing these jumpers will allow for tuning and controlling options on the printer interface.

USB-C Power option - with this jumper the board can be powered via USB-C. This will allow you to compile and download the firmware directly to the motherboard using DFU mode, ideal for testing the board.

Voltage Selection - Each fan output can be set to one of three different voltages (5V, 12V or 24V) depending on the jumper positions. The third image exemplifies where the pins must be placed to achieve different voltages.

The voltage selections used in the guide are for the electronics kit provided by Rat Rig. If using different fans, ensure the voltages are set correctly to avoid damage to components.

BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1 with the jumpers from the previous Step

5x TMC2209 Stepper Driver for CoreXY

7x TMC2209 Stepper Driver for Hybrid

Orient the TMC2209 Stepper Drivers with the two upper pins to the outside of the board.

Make sure the drivers are inserted all the way to ensure a reliable connection.

Insert the TMC2209 drivers slowly while checking pin alignment to avoid damaging the components.

These two drivers are only used on the Hybrid and IDEX configurations

BigTreeTech Octopus V1.1 Motherboard

4x M3x8 Button head screw

Inster the M3x8 Cap Head Screws through the Octopus V1.1 Board and tighten it to the vc4_adapter_octopus assembly

Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the board and the printed parts

Raspberry Pi 4B

M2.5x6 Cap Head Screws

Insert the M2.5x6 Cap Head Screws through the Raspberry Pi Board and tighten it to the vc4_adapter_rpi_assembly

Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts

Power Supply Weho - 250Watt 24V - Fanless

4x M4x6 Countersink Screw

Mount the power supply as shown, and tighten the screws to secure it to the electronics enclosure.

Panel Assembly - Rear

1x Adhesive backed foam sealing tape

4x vc4_grommet_V1

16x T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6

20x M6x12 Cap Head Screw

16x M6 Washer

Panel Assembly - Rear

M6x12 Cap Head Screw

M6 Washer

T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6

Insert a M6x12 Screw into a M6 washer through the rear panel, and loosely tighten a T-Nut.

Double check the panel orientation, an easy way to make sure is to orient the panel in a position where the marked hole is more to the left than to the right.

Insert a vc4_grommet_V1 in each designated hole from the same side as the t-nuts

Install the Adhesive backed foam sealing tape to the outside of the V-Core 4 frame, to ensure a good isolation between the frame and the panel.

Install the rear panel to the V-Core 4 frame

Tighten the screws around the panel, to secure it to the frame.

Do not over-tighten the screws as you can damage the panel.

Electronics enclosure

4x M6x12 Cap Head Screw

4x M6 Nylon Locking Nut

Insert an M6x12 Screw into the electronics enclosure and the rear panel, and tighten it to an M6 Nylon locking nut, to secure the assembly

Do not overtighten the screws as you can damage the panel.

This guide will next tackle the wiring of all the components, which can be a long task. Take a break and have some food.

Continue on Step 52 as the next steps will cover the non-enclosed V-Core 4 version

4x M6x12 Cap Head Screw

T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6

vc4_electronics_mount_upper

vc4_electronics_mount_lower

vc4_electronics_mount_upper

M6x12 Cap Head Screw

T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6

Repeat the previous Steps and prepare another assembly.

vc4_electronics_mount_lower

M6x12 Cap Head Screw

T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6

Repeat the previous Steps and prepare another assembly.

Electronics enclosure

2x Upper mounting assemblies from Step 45

2x M6 Nylon Locking Nut

2x M6x12 Cap Head Screw

Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts

Lower mounting assemblies from Step 46

Lightly tighten the screws to secure the assemblies to the V-Core 4 frame, do not fully tighten them as you will need to readjust the height on the next steps.

Electronics enclosure assembly

Place the mounting printed parts on top of the 3030 extrusion as shown.

Adjust the electronics enclosure from left to right to get it centred on the V-Core 4 frame

Tighten the M6x12 Screws to secure the assembly.

Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts

Adjust the printed parts up and down on the extrusion to align the M6 holes with the ones on the electronics enclosure.

Align the holes

Insert the M6 Nylon Locking nuts and the M6x12 Cap Head Screws from the other side. Tighten the assembly.

Finally, tighten the M6x12 Cap Head Screws on the frame.

Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts

This guide will next tackle the wiring of all the components, which can be a long task. Take a break and have some food.

16x Fork Terminal - 3.7mm Insulated

4x Wire - DC Power - 16AWG RED - 270mm

4x Wire - DC Power - 16AWG BLACK - 270mm

Wire - DC Power - 16AWG RED/Black - 270mm

Strip 5-7mm of isolation on both ends.

Crimp a Fork Terminal - 3.7mm Insulated on each end.

Repeat the previous Step and prepare 4 red wires and 4 black wires

Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270mm)

Insert one end on the second slot (numbered 2 on the board) and tighten the screw.

Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ +V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

Black Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270mm)

Insert one end on the first slot (numbered 1 on the board) and tighten the screw.

Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ -V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.

Route the wires accordingly.

Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)

Insert one end on the fourth slot (numbered 4 on the board) and tighten the screw.

Insert the other end on the middle slot of the [ +V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

Black Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)

Insert one end on the third slot (numbered 3 on the board) and tighten the screw.

Insert the other end on the middle slot of the [ -V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.

Route the wires accordingly.

Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)

Insert one end in the sixth slot (numbered 6 on the board) and tighten the screw.

Insert the other end in the left slot of the [ +V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

Black Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)

Insert one end on the fifth slot (numbered 5 on the board) and tighten the screw.

Insert the other end on the left slot of the [ -V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.

Route the wires accordingly.

Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)

Insert one end on the seventh slot (numbered 7 on the board) and tighten the screw.

Insert the other end on the SSR Relay positive terminal (the supplied SSR Relay has the positive terminal next to the red indicator LED)

Black Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)

Insert one end on the last slot (numbered 8 on the board) and tighten the screw.

Insert the other end on the SSR Relay positive terminal.

It's crucial that the polarity is correct, incorrect wiring will result in severe damage. Double-check your connections using the images. If you have any doubts about your SSR Relay connections please check the supplier datasheet.

After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.

Before moving on to the next step, check all the wires. The connections must look like the picture.

Double check the polarity is correct with the previous Steps. Always place the wire with POSITIVE ( + V ) polarity in the positive slot on Board and the NEGATIVE ( -V ) with the negative slots on the Board. Incorrect polarity will kill the board

Cable - XH JST 2 Pin - 22AWG Short Patch Cable - 150mm

Fan 50x15 Axial

Connect all the fans to the Rat Rig 3-to-1 XH Splitter - 2 Pin - V1

Ensure the Jumper is set to 24V

Using the small extension cable, connect the splitter board to the octopus, the connector should be inserted on the third fan connector.

Y endstop already installed on the V-Core 4

Cable 2000mm - 3 Conductor 24AWG - JST XH2.54 to JST XH2.54

Connect the cable to the endstop module as shown

32x vc4_wire_clip

To install a wire clip, insert one end into the extrusion and rotate it until it clicks into place.

Later in the guide, some wires will be routed inside the 3030 extrusions. These clips help retain the wires within the extrusion slots.

Warning: Check your cables. Incorrect endstop wiring can damage your board.

Rat Rig Omron Y endstop

Endstop 3 wire cable - length: 2000 mm

Connect the JST3 connector to the shown slot on the octopus board.

Route the cable accordingly. Place the cables inside the extrusions to help route them.

Use four wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion.

Route the Right [R] Stepper motor cable as shown.

Route the Left [L] Stepper motor cable as shown.

Connect the Left [L] Stepper motor cable to the lowest slot available on the Octopus Board

Connect the Right [R] Stepper motor cable to the second lowest slot available on the Octopus Board

Make sure the connectors are oriented correctly with their sockets. The "key" on the connector should align with the "gap" on the sockets.

The stepper motor wire colour order does not matter if the cable was supplied in the V-Core 4 kit.

Use six wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion.

Proceed with Step 67

This Step is only meant for the Hybrid and IDEX builds if you are building a V-Core 4 CoreXY skip this Step.

Route the L Stepper motor cable as shown.

Route the R Stepper motor cable as shown.

Connect the Left [L] Stepper motor cable to the first slot available on the Octopus Board, counting from the bottom.

Connect the Right [R] Stepper motor cable in the sixth slot available on the Octopus Board, counting from the bottom.

The stepper motor wire colour order does not matter if the cable was supplied in the V-Core 4 kit.

Use three wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion.

This Step is only meant for the Hybrid and IDEX builds if you are building a V-Core 4 CoreXY skip this Step.

Route the Y1 Stepper motor cable as shown.

Route the Y2 Stepper motor cable as shown.

Connect the Y1 Stepper motor cable to the second slot available on the Octopus Board, counting from the bottom.

Connect the Y2 Stepper motor cable in the fifth slot available on the Octopus Board, counting from the bottom.

The stepper motor wire colour order does not matter if the cable was supplied in the V-Core 4 kit.

Use three wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion.

Proceed with Step 67

Stepper Motor Wire

Front Z Steppers cables 1500mm

Rear Z Stepper cable 1000mm

Stepper Motor Connector (wider connector / JST PH6P)

Control Board Connector (narrower connector / JST XH2.54 )

Make sure the connectors are oriented correctly with their sockets. The "key" on the connector should align with the "gap" on the sockets.

Connect all the Z Stepper motor cables, ensuring the longer 1500 mm are used for the front Z steppers and the shorter 1000 mm is used for the rear stepper motor.

The stepper motor wire colour order does not matter if the cable was supplied in the V-Core 4 kit.

If your bottom panel has a grommet dedicated to the Z Steppers, follow here, otherwise, skip this Step.

Route the Z0 Stepper motor as shown

Route the Z1 Stepper motor as shown

Route the Z2 Stepper motor as shown

Feed all the cables through the bottom panel grommet.

Feed all the cables through the rear panel grommet and into the electronics enclosure

Connect all the cables to the octopus board as shown; Z0 - driver 5; Z1 - driver 6; Z2 - driver 7;

Use eighteen wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion. Four of them should be used on the vertical rear Z extrusion.

If your bottom panel has a grommet dedicated to the Z Steppers, follow here, otherwise, go back to the previous Step.

Route the Z0 Stepper motor as shown

Route the Z1 Stepper motor as shown

Route the Z2 Stepper motor as shown

Feed all the cables through the bottom panel grommet.

Feed all the cables through the rear panel grommet and into the electronics enclosure

Connect all the cables to the octopus board as shown; Z0 - driver 5; Z1 - driver 6; Z2 - driver 7;

Use eighteen wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion. Four of them should be used on the vertical rear Z extrusion.

The Z0 Stepper must be connecter to driver 5.

Z0 is the front left stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.

The Z1 Stepper must be connecter to driver 6.

Z1 is the rear stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.

The Z2 Stepper must be connecter to driver 7.

Z2 is the rear stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.

The Raspberry Pi wiring is the same regardless of the Raspberry Pi model used. Please note that all GPIOs are in the same place as well as the USB ports.

Power Input +5V

Power Input GND

Black Jumper Wire ( Length: 500mm )

Red Jumper Wire ( Length: 500mm )

USB A to USB C Wire - Provided with the octopus board

The Raspberry Pi can be powered in many ways, using an external 5V power supply, via USB (power input) and via the GPIOS pins. The V-Core chooses to power the PI via the GPIOS pins as this simplifies the wiring.

Red and Black Jumper Wires ( Length: 500mm )

Red Wire- Power Output +5V on the Octopus V1.1

Red Wire- Power Input +5V on the Raspberry Pi

Black Wire- Power Output GND on the Octopus V1.1

Black Wire- Power Input GND on the Raspberry Pi

USB A to USB C Cable

Connect the USB A Port on the Raspberry Pi and the USB C Port on the Octopus V1.1

Phaetus Rapido V2 UHF Hotend

Cut the wires with 150mm and strip 5-10mm of the end, to expose the inside conductor.

Cut the thermistor wires with 160mm and crimp a JST 2 connector

The thermistor is a resistor that strongly varies with temperature. When crimping a resistor you don't have to worry about wire order as resistors don't have polarity.

Hot End Heater 24V

Insert the cable ends on the designated slots and tighten the screws.

After tightening the screws, pull the cable to make sure it's firmly connected. If the cable releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.

Hot End Thermistor

Plug the connector into the designated connector.

The thermistor wires are very fragile, bending them past its threshold can damage the conductors within, leading to wire failure.

Insert the highlighted jumper to achieve more accurate temperature readings

Route the wires accordingly.

Connect the orbiter extruder cable to the designated slot on the toolboard

Route the wires accordingly.

Hot End 4010 fan - 24V

Connect the positive and negative wires to the referred slot.

Route the cable accordingly.

Use a zip tie to ensure the cable is secure to the toolhead body.

Cable 120mm - 3 Conductor 24AWG - JST XH2.54 male to Bare wire

Micro JST 5pins provided with the EBB42 Toolboard package

Crimp the connector on the 3 wires as shown.

Refer to this picture to clearly show where the wires go

Warning: Check your cables. Incorrect endstop wiring can damage your board.

Rat Rig Omron X endstop

Endstop 3 wire cable - Prepared previously.

Connect the JST3 connector to the shown slot on the toolboard.

Route the cable accordingly.

4x Crimp - Molex Micro-Fit (43025 compatible)

Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Male (43025-0400)

3x Crimp - Molex Micro-Fit (43020 compatible)

Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Female (43020-0400)

2x Connector - 2 Pin - JST XHP-2 - 2.54 Male

4x Crimp - JST XH 2.54

Cable 1500mm - 3 Conductor 24AWG - JST XH2.54 to JST XH2.54

Crimp the Connector - Molex Micro-Fit (43025 compatible) to all the 4028 wires

The small tab must be facing upwards.

Insert the crimps inside the Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Male (43025-0400) as shown

1 - 12V Red - NIDEC fan

2- GND Black - NIDEC fan

3- PWM Blue - NIDEC fan

4- Tac White -NIDEC fan (not used with the Octopus board(

Insert the crimp on the connector until you hear a "Click"

Cut the JST3 connectors on the Endstop cable and crimp the Molex Micro-Fit (43020 compatible)

Insert them into the Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Female (43020-0400) as shown on the images

The small lock piece on the connector must be facing upwards.

Use the full length of the RED and Black wires

2 Pin - JST XHP-2 - 2.54 Male

Crimp the GND (Black) wire to the left slot on the housing

Crimp the +12V (RED) wire to the left slot on the housing

Cut the white wire with 70mm, measuring from the Molex connector

2 Pin - JST XHP-2 - 2.54 Male

Crimp the PWM (White) wire to the left slot on the housing

Triple check all connections and crimps

Cooling 4028 fan - 12 V

Connect the PWM wire to the negative pin (the one closest to the middle of the toolboard) of the shown connector.

Connect the positive and negative wire to the referred slot where the 12V jumper was placed.

Route the power cable back to the electronics enclosure and follow the piano wire previously installed.

Use some zip ties to clean the excess cable inside the electronics enclosure.

Route the PWM wire as shown.

IDEX ONLY Connect the 4028 cooling fan from T1 on the slot below. Ensure the jumper is set to 12V.

The power connector provided in the EBB42 toolboard box

Carefully check the wire order, if the polarity is swapped, you will destroy your electronics!

Crimp the red and black wires on the connector as shown

Wire - DC Power - 18AWG RED - 1000mm

Wire - DC Power - 18AWG BLACK - 1000mm

2x Fork Terminal - 3.7mm Insulated

Crimp the fork connectors as shown

Cable - USB-A to USB-C Cable 1500mm

Connect the USB C port on the toolboard

Connect the USB A Port on the Raspberry Pi

Red and Black Power wires

Red Wire- Power Input +24V on the Toolboard and [+V] on the Power Supply

Black Wire- Power Input GND on the Toolboard and [-V] on the Power Supply

Route the cables back to the electronics enclosure and follow the piano wire previously installed - Use some zip ties to clean the excess cable inside the electronics enclosure.

It is imperative to make sure that the USB-C connector cannot move! Tie it down to the printed part using some zip ties.

Ignore this Step if you are wiring the IDEX T1 toolhead

Beacon Z probe

USB Beacon cable

Connect the cable to the beacon and the Raspberry Pi

Use two zip ties to ensure the cable is secure to the toolhead body.

Route the cables back to the electronics enclosure and follow the piano wire previously installed.

Use some zip ties to clean the excess cable inside the electronics enclosure.

Have we mentioned how good the Beacon probe is? Just wait until you fire it up, you can find more info here.

Repeat Steps 73 to 85 to complete the wiring of the second toolhead.

Bed Heater with the incorporated Thermistor.

Do not mistake the bed heater wires for the bed thermistor wires. The thermistor wires are the ones with the JST 2 wire connector.

The thermistor is a resistor that strongly varies with temperature. When connecting a resistor you don't have to worry about cable order as resistors don't have polarity.

The magnetic sheet and heater pad will be installed later during the commissioning guide. Do not install them now.

Connect the Bed Thermistor to the first thermistor slot, counting from the bottom.

Place the heater pad next to the machine and connect only the thermistor

This is required to follow the guide and perform a sanity check

Check all the cables. The connections must look like the picture. Take your time to ensure all steps are correct before powering the machine on, any mistakes may cause component malfunction or failure.

This diagram is for the V-Core 4 CoreXY variant.

This diagram is for the V-Core 4 Hybrid variant.

This diagram is for the V-Core 4 IDEX variant.

21x Electronics Wire Guide Clips

Click them into place once all the cables are routed inside of the Electronics Wire Guides.

Close the clips carefully as you might pinch/break the cables.

Before proceeding with any AC 230V wire connections, it is crucial to understand the risks involved. Alternating Current (AC) at 230V / 110V is a high voltage that can cause severe injury or even death if not handled correctly. This type of electrical work is highly dangerous and should only be performed by a licensed professional.

Click here to access the V-Core 4 Main wiring diagram. This will guide you through the Installation of the IEC and high voltage circuit

V-Core 4 400 and 500 ONLY 110V

Before connecting the power cable, inspect its rating. Ensure the cable is labeled with the correct voltage and current ratings for your electrical installation. If you are uncertain about which power cable to use, seek advice from a certified electrician. Rat Rig recommends using a power cable rated for 20A.

Cable Sleeve - Black 9.5mm split braided sleeve

Route the sleeve along the piano wire and hide the cables+piano wire inside of it.

Insert it on the electronics enclosure for a cleaner look!

Use zip ties to secure the umbilical to the toolhead and frame.

TIP: Use zip ties to secure the PTFE tube to the wiring sleeve for a cleaner look. Do not stretch the PTFE tube, as this can cause the filament to bind inside and reduce the machine's performance.

This step is optional, this sleeve will enhance the stealth look of your machine, at the cost of not being able to see the filament inside the PTFE tube.

Cable Sleeve - Black 4mm split braided sleeve (SCW-003)

Carefully wrap the PTFE tube with the smaller 4mm braided sleeve, for a stealth look!

It's known that if you subscribe to Rat Rig TV and use the PTFE sleeve, your V-Core 4 will increase its acceleration by +50k mm/s2!