This guide has more recent changes. Switch to the latest unverified version.

12. Electronics

Written By: Rat Rig (and 3 other contributors)
  • Comments: 78
  • Favorites: 0
  • Completions: 5

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

79

Time Required

Suggest a time??

Sections

1

Flags

0

  1. BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1 Raspberry Pi

    • BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1

    • Raspberry Pi

    • USB A to USB C Cable

    • Insert this jumper, allowing the board to receive power from the Raspberry Pi. Remove all other jumpers from the board.

    • 5V Power supply - smartphone charger for example (minimum 3 AMP is recommended)

    • It is heavily recommended that you flash your board and make sure it is detected in the configurator before you plug in your stepper drivers and start connecting your wiring. - Check RatOs documentation

    • Remove the highlighted jumper as it will no longer be required.

    • If your board flashed successfully you can proceed with the guide.

    Edit

    The above hyperlink "Check RatOs documentation" is a little confusing as it points to RatOS-v2.0.2 instead of the needed 2.1.x.

    Jim Sellon - Reply

  2. If your kit has a 120mm fan skip this Step and keep following the guide. If your kit has 50x15 axial fans, Identify your electronics enclosure kit

    • If your kit has a 120mm fan skip this Step and keep following the guide.

    • If your kit has 50x15 axial fans, Identify your electronics enclosure kit

    • If your corners are aluminium, you have the aluminium enclosure - Click here to follow the dedicated guide.

    • You can also check your kit SKU- HW3810MK

    • If your corners are printed parts, you have the steel enclosure, Click here to follow the dedicated guide.

    • You can also check your kit SKU- HW3916MK

    Edit

    Should probably say ”Go to step 3” instead of ”2”.

    Matti - Reply

  3. vc4_enclosure_alum_lid

    • vc4_enclosure_alum_lid

    • vc4_enclosure_alum_base

    • vc4_enclosure_alum_bottom

    • vc4_enclosure_alum_left

    • vc4_enclosure_alum_top

    • vc4_enclosure_alum_right

    Edit

  4. vc4_electronics_corner

    • vc4_electronics_corner

    • 29x M3 Heat Insert

    • 31x M3x6 Countersink screw

    • 32x M3x6 Button head screw

    • 4x M4x10 Countersink screw

    • 2x M4x12 Countersink screw

    • 4x Hex Standoffs 35mm

    Edit

  5. vc4_enclosure_alum_base 2x M3x6 Countersink screw vc4_electronics_corner

    • vc4_enclosure_alum_base

    • 2x M3x6 Countersink screw

    • vc4_electronics_corner

    • Thread the M3x6 countersink screws to the heat inserts on the vc4_electronics_corner.

    • Assemble the components as shown, and ensure the vc4_enclosure_steel_base is correctly oriented and the countersunk screw is inserted into the countersink groove.

    • Repeat the previous Steps and assemble the remaining corners.

    Edit

  6. vc4_enclosure_steel_top and right 4x M3x6 Button Head Screw for each panel

    • vc4_enclosure_steel_top and right

    • 4x M3x6 Button Head Screw for each panel

    • Assemble the enclosure components as shown, making sure the panels are correctly oriented.

    Edit

  7. vc4_enclosure_steel_left vc4_enclosure_steel_bottom

    • vc4_enclosure_steel_left

    • vc4_enclosure_steel_bottom

    • 4x M3x6 Button Head Screw for each plate

    • Assemble the enclosure components as shown, making sure the panels are correctly oriented.

    Edit

  8. 15A fuse

    • 15A fuse

    • Fuse Holder

    • IEC

    • 2x M3x12 Cap Head Screws

    • 2x M3 locking hex nut

    Edit

    To insert fuse, remove cap on fuse holder (there is a slot), and twist loose insert fuse into cap, there is a spring. Push in and twist close.

    Oliver - Reply

    Counter sink screws

    Oliver - Reply

  9. IEC 2x M3x12 Countersink screw Fuse holder

    • IEC

    • 2x M3x12 Countersink screw

    • Fuse holder

    • 2x M3 Locking nut

    • Fuse holder nut

    Edit

  10. 4x M2.5x6 Cap Head Screw

    • 4x M2.5x6 Cap Head Screw

    • 4x M3x8 Cap Head Screw

    • 26x M3 Heat Insert

    • vc4_adapter_octopus printed part

    • 2x vc4_adapter_rpi printed part

    • 3x vc4_cable_guide_5 assembly

    • vc4_cable_guide_4 assembly

    • vc4_cable_guide_cross

    Edit

    Probably Countersink Screws should be used.

    Seppo - Reply

    Shouldn't there also be 4x M2.5 Heat Inserts to match the 4x M2.5CHS for the Raspberry Pi brackets?

    Kenneth - Reply

  11. Insert the countersink screws into the indicated holes, ensuring that the picture is oriented with the countersink holes facing you. vc4_adapter_octopus assembly 2x vc4_adapter_rpi assembly

    • Insert the countersink screws into the indicated holes, ensuring that the picture is oriented with the countersink holes facing you.

    • vc4_adapter_octopus assembly

    • 2x vc4_adapter_rpi assembly

    • Insert the screws from the bottom, passing them through the panel to tighten them into the heat inserts on the supports.

    Edit

  12. Insert the countersink screws into the indicated holes, ensuring that the picture is oriented with the countersink holes facing you. 10x M3x6 Countersink screws

    • Insert the countersink screws into the indicated holes, ensuring that the picture is oriented with the countersink holes facing you.

    • 10x M3x6 Countersink screws

    • vc4_cable_guide_cross

    • vc4_cable_guide_4 assembly

    • 3x vc4_cable_guide_5 assembly

    • Insert the screws from the bottom, passing them through the panel to tighten them into the heat inserts on the cable guide parts.

    Edit

  13. Insert the countersink screws into the indicated holes, ensuring that the picture is oriented with the countersink holes facing you. 5x M3x6 Countersink screws 5x Hex standoff - steel - M3x35

    • Insert the countersink screws into the indicated holes, ensuring that the picture is oriented with the countersink holes facing you.

    • 5x M3x6 Countersink screws

    • 5x Hex standoff - steel - M3x35

    Edit

  14. Fan grille 120mm

    • Fan grille 120mm

    • Fan axial 120x15

    • 4x Self tapping screw - Fam - 12mm

    Edit

  15. 4x Self tapping screw - Fam - 12mm Fan grille 120mm

    • 4x Self tapping screw - Fam - 12mm

    • Fan grille 120mm

    • Fan axial 120x15

    • Insert the screws from the top, through the fan grille and the enclosure lid and thread them to the fan body.

    Edit

  16. SSR relay

    • SSR relay

    • 2x M5 Locking hex nut

    • Raspberry pi

    • Octopus V1.1

    • Power Supply Weho - 250Watt 24V - Fanless

    Edit

    M4 Locking hex nut

    Seppo - Reply

  17. Electronics Enclosure assembly SSR 40A480VAC Solid State Relay 2x M4x12 Countersink screws

    • Electronics Enclosure assembly

    • SSR 40A480VAC Solid State Relay

    • 2x M4x12 Countersink screws

    • Gently open the SSR Relay tabs to access the mounting holes.

    • 2x M4 Nylon Locking Nut

    • Tighten the screws to secure the SSR Relay to the electronics enclosure

    Edit

  18. BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1 Remove all the jumpers on the board before starting. Insert the jumpers onto the highlighted pins.

    • BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1

    • Remove all the jumpers on the board before starting. Insert the jumpers onto the highlighted pins.

    • UART mode - placing these jumpers will allow for tuning and controlling options on the printer interface.

    • USB-C Power option - with this jumper the board can be powered via USB-C. This will allow you to compile and download the firmware directly to the motherboard using DFU mode, ideal for testing the board.

    • Voltage Selection - Each fan output can be set to one of three different voltages (5V, 12V or 24V) depending on the jumper positions. The third image exemplifies where the pins must be placed to achieve different voltages.

    • The voltage selections used in the guide are for the electronics kit provided by Rat Rig. If using different fans, ensure the voltages are set correctly to avoid damage to components.

    Edit

  19. BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1 with the jumpers from the previous Step 5x TMC2209 Stepper Driver for CoreXY 7x TMC2209 Stepper Driver for Hybrid

    • BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1 with the jumpers from the previous Step

    • 5x TMC2209 Stepper Driver for CoreXY

    • 7x TMC2209 Stepper Driver for Hybrid

    • Orient the TMC2209 Stepper Drivers with the two upper pins to the outside of the board.

    • Make sure the drivers are inserted all the way to ensure a reliable connection.

    • Insert the TMC2209 drivers slowly while checking pin alignment to avoid damaging the components.

    • These two drivers are only used on the Hybrid and IDEX configurations

    Edit

  20. BigTreeTech Octopus V1.1 Motherboard 4x M3x8 Button head screw

    • BigTreeTech Octopus V1.1 Motherboard

    • 4x M3x8 Button head screw

    • Inster the M3x8 Cap Head Screws through the Octopus V1.1 Board and tighten it to the vc4_adapter_octopus assembly

    • Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the board and the printed parts

    Edit

  21. Raspberry Pi 4B M2.5x6 Cap Head Screws

    • Raspberry Pi 4B

    • M2.5x6 Cap Head Screws

    • Insert the M2.5x6 Cap Head Screws through the Raspberry Pi Board and tighten it to the vc4_adapter_rpi_assembly

    • Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts

    Edit

  22. Power Supply Weho - 250Watt 24V - Fanless 4x M4x6 Countersink Screw Mount the power supply as shown, and tighten the screws to secure it to the electronics enclosure.

    • Power Supply Weho - 250Watt 24V - Fanless

    • 4x M4x6 Countersink Screw

    • Mount the power supply as shown, and tighten the screws to secure it to the electronics enclosure.

    Edit

    Not that it's all that important, but you call out and ship a fanless power supply, but the image shows a power supply with fan :)

    Scott - Reply

  23. Panel Assembly - Rear

    • Panel Assembly - Rear

    • 1x Adhesive backed foam sealing tape

    • 4x vc4_grommet_V1

    • 16x T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6

    • 20x M6x12 Cap Head Screw

    • 16x M6 Washer

    Edit

    Skip to step 29 for non enclosed version

    Oliver - Reply

    18 washer, 16 for the outer parts, 2 for inside the plate

    little builder - Reply

    A quantity of 17 M6 cap head screws, washers, and T-nuts are used to attach the rear panel, not 16.

    Jim Sellon - Reply

  24. Panel Assembly - Rear M6x12 Cap Head Screw M6 Washer

    • Panel Assembly - Rear

    • M6x12 Cap Head Screw

    • M6 Washer

    • T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6

    • Insert a M6x12 Screw into a M6 washer through the rear panel, and loosely tighten a T-Nut.

    • Double check the panel orientation, an easy way to make sure is to orient the panel in a position where the marked hole is more to the left than to the right.

    • Insert a vc4_grommet_V1 in each designated hole from the same side as the t-nuts

    Edit

  25. Install the Adhesive backed foam sealing tape to the outside of the V-Core 4 frame, to ensure a good isolation between the frame and the panel. Install the Adhesive backed foam sealing tape to the outside of the V-Core 4 frame, to ensure a good isolation between the frame and the panel.

    • Install the Adhesive backed foam sealing tape to the outside of the V-Core 4 frame, to ensure a good isolation between the frame and the panel.

    Edit

  26. Install the rear panel to the V-Core 4 frame Tighten the screws around the panel, to secure it to the frame.

    • Install the rear panel to the V-Core 4 frame

    • Tighten the screws around the panel, to secure it to the frame.

    • Do not over-tighten the screws as you can damage the panel.

    Edit

  27. Electronics enclosure 4x M6x12 Cap Head Screw 4x M6 Nylon Locking Nut

    • Electronics enclosure

    • 4x M6x12 Cap Head Screw

    • 4x M6 Nylon Locking Nut

    • Insert an M6x12 Screw into the electronics enclosure and the rear panel, and tighten it to an M6 Nylon locking nut, to secure the assembly

    • Do not overtighten the screws as you can damage the panel.

    Edit

  28. This guide will next tackle the wiring of all the components, which can be a long task. Take a break and have some food.

    • This guide will next tackle the wiring of all the components, which can be a long task. Take a break and have some food.

    • Continue on Step 52 as the next steps will cover the non-enclosed V-Core 4 version

    Edit

    Should read "Skip to step 37" to go past the non-enclosed version.

    Scott - Reply

  29. 4x M6x12 Cap Head Screw

    • 4x M6x12 Cap Head Screw

    • T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6

    • vc4_electronics_mount_upper

    • vc4_electronics_mount_lower

    Edit

  30. vc4_electronics_mount_upper M6x12 Cap Head Screw T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6

    • vc4_electronics_mount_upper

    • M6x12 Cap Head Screw

    • T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6

    • Repeat the previous Steps and prepare another assembly.

    Edit

  31. vc4_electronics_mount_lower M6x12 Cap Head Screw T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6

    • vc4_electronics_mount_lower

    • M6x12 Cap Head Screw

    • T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6

    • Repeat the previous Steps and prepare another assembly.

    Edit

  32. Electronics enclosure 2x Upper mounting assemblies from Step 45 2x M6 Nylon Locking Nut

    • Electronics enclosure

    • 2x Upper mounting assemblies from Step 45

    • 2x M6 Nylon Locking Nut

    • 2x M6x12 Cap Head Screw

    • Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts

    Edit

    It's been fixed, thank you for your feedback!

    Rat Rig - Reply

    This should say M6 Nylon Locking nut, not M5

    Thomas - Reply

  33. Lower mounting assemblies from Step 46 Lightly tighten the screws to secure the assemblies to the V-Core 4 frame, do not fully tighten them as you will need to readjust the height on the next steps.

    • Lower mounting assemblies from Step 46

    • Lightly tighten the screws to secure the assemblies to the V-Core 4 frame, do not fully tighten them as you will need to readjust the height on the next steps.

    Edit

  34. Electronics enclosure assembly Place the mounting printed parts on top of the 3030 extrusion as shown. Adjust the electronics enclosure from left to right to get it centred on the V-Core 4 frame

    • Electronics enclosure assembly

    • Place the mounting printed parts on top of the 3030 extrusion as shown.

    • Adjust the electronics enclosure from left to right to get it centred on the V-Core 4 frame

    • Tighten the M6x12 Screws to secure the assembly.

    • Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts

    Edit

  35. Adjust the printed parts up and down on the extrusion to align the M6 holes with the ones on the electronics enclosure. Align the holes Insert the M6 Nylon Locking nuts and the M6x12 Cap Head Screws from the other side. Tighten the assembly.

    • Adjust the printed parts up and down on the extrusion to align the M6 holes with the ones on the electronics enclosure.

    • Align the holes

    • Insert the M6 Nylon Locking nuts and the M6x12 Cap Head Screws from the other side. Tighten the assembly.

    • Finally, tighten the M6x12 Cap Head Screws on the frame.

    • Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts

    Edit

  36. This guide will next tackle the wiring of all the components, which can be a long task. Take a break and have some food.

    • This guide will next tackle the wiring of all the components, which can be a long task. Take a break and have some food.

    Edit

  37. 16x Fork Terminal - 3.7mm Insulated

    • 16x Fork Terminal - 3.7mm Insulated

    • 4x Wire - DC Power - 16AWG RED - 270mm

    • 4x Wire - DC Power - 16AWG BLACK - 270mm

    Edit

  38. Wire - DC Power - 16AWG RED/Black - 270mm Strip 5-7mm of isolation on both ends. Crimp a Fork Terminal - 3.7mm Insulated on each end.

    • Wire - DC Power - 16AWG RED/Black - 270mm

    • Strip 5-7mm of isolation on both ends.

    • Crimp a Fork Terminal - 3.7mm Insulated on each end.

    • Repeat the previous Step and prepare 4 red wires and 4 black wires

    Edit

  39. Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270mm) Insert one end on the second slot (numbered 2 on the board) and tighten the screw. Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ +V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

    • Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270mm)

    • Insert one end on the second slot (numbered 2 on the board) and tighten the screw.

    • Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ +V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

    • Black Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270mm)

    • Insert one end on the first slot (numbered 1 on the board) and tighten the screw.

    • Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ -V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

    • After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.

    • Route the wires accordingly.

    Edit

    The red and black wires that go to the power supply should connect to the left most pair of positive and negative terminals, not the right most terminals. This will leave room for the wires to reach in Step 57.

    Jim Sellon - Reply

  40. Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm) Insert one end on the fourth slot (numbered 4 on the board) and tighten the screw. Insert the other end on the middle slot of the [ +V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

    • Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)

    • Insert one end on the fourth slot (numbered 4 on the board) and tighten the screw.

    • Insert the other end on the middle slot of the [ +V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

    • Black Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)

    • Insert one end on the third slot (numbered 3 on the board) and tighten the screw.

    • Insert the other end on the middle slot of the [ -V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

    • After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.

    • Route the wires accordingly.

    Edit

  41. Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm) Insert one end in the sixth slot (numbered 6 on the board) and tighten the screw. Insert the other end in the left slot of the [ +V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

    • Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)

    • Insert one end in the sixth slot (numbered 6 on the board) and tighten the screw.

    • Insert the other end in the left slot of the [ +V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

    • Black Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)

    • Insert one end on the fifth slot (numbered 5 on the board) and tighten the screw.

    • Insert the other end on the left slot of the [ -V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.

    • After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.

    • Route the wires accordingly.

    Edit

    The red and black wires that go to the power supply should connect to the right most pair of positive and negative terminals, not the left most terminals. This works if you followed the advice in the comment in Step 55.

    Jim Sellon - Reply

  42. Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm) Insert one end on the seventh slot (numbered 7 on the board) and tighten the screw. Insert the other end on the SSR Relay positive terminal (the supplied SSR Relay has the positive terminal next to the red indicator LED)

    • Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)

    • Insert one end on the seventh slot (numbered 7 on the board) and tighten the screw.

    • Insert the other end on the SSR Relay positive terminal (the supplied SSR Relay has the positive terminal next to the red indicator LED)

    • Black Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)

    • Insert one end on the last slot (numbered 8 on the board) and tighten the screw.

    • Insert the other end on the SSR Relay positive terminal.

    • It's crucial that the polarity is correct, incorrect wiring will result in severe damage. Double-check your connections using the images. If you have any doubts about your SSR Relay connections please check the supplier datasheet.

    • After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.

    Edit

    The instruction above with the blue dot that reads, "Insert the other end on the SSR Relay positive terminal."

    should instead say, "Insert the other end on the SSR Relay negative terminal."

    Jim Sellon - Reply

  43. Before moving on to the next step, check all the wires. The connections must look like the picture.

    • Before moving on to the next step, check all the wires. The connections must look like the picture.

    • Double check the polarity is correct with the previous Steps. Always place the wire with POSITIVE ( + V ) polarity in the positive slot on Board and the NEGATIVE ( -V ) with the negative slots on the Board. Incorrect polarity will kill the board

    Edit

  44. Cable - XH JST 2 Pin - 22AWG Short Patch Cable - 150mm Fan 50x15 Axial Connect all the fans to the Rat Rig 3-to-1 XH Splitter - 2 Pin - V1

    • Cable - XH JST 2 Pin - 22AWG Short Patch Cable - 150mm

    • Fan 50x15 Axial

    • Connect all the fans to the Rat Rig 3-to-1 XH Splitter - 2 Pin - V1

    • Ensure the Jumper is set to 24V

    • Using the small extension cable, connect the splitter board to the octopus, the connector should be inserted on the third fan connector.

    Edit

    Needs to be an addition showing the one big fan. During enclosure assembly, the fan is already mounted the the e-box cover.

    Oliver - Reply

    In this step I see all jumpers connected to the fan ports while in the previous steps we were to remove all but the third one.

    Samuel Lazea - Reply

  45. Y endstop already installed on the V-Core 4 Cable 2000mm - 3 Conductor 24AWG - JST XH2.54 to JST XH2.54

    • Y endstop already installed on the V-Core 4

    • Cable 2000mm - 3 Conductor 24AWG - JST XH2.54 to JST XH2.54

    • Connect the cable to the endstop module as shown

    Edit

  46. 32x vc4_wire_clip To install a wire clip, insert one end into the extrusion and rotate it until it clicks into place. Later in the guide, some wires will be routed inside the 3030 extrusions. These clips help retain the wires within the extrusion slots.

    • 32x vc4_wire_clip

    • To install a wire clip, insert one end into the extrusion and rotate it until it clicks into place.

    • Later in the guide, some wires will be routed inside the 3030 extrusions. These clips help retain the wires within the extrusion slots.

    Edit

  47. Warning: Check your cables. Incorrect endstop wiring can damage your board. Rat Rig Omron Y endstop Endstop 3 wire cable - length: 2000 mm

    • Warning: Check your cables. Incorrect endstop wiring can damage your board.

    • Rat Rig Omron Y endstop

    • Endstop 3 wire cable - length: 2000 mm

    • Connect the JST3 connector to the shown slot on the octopus board.

    • Route the cable accordingly. Place the cables inside the extrusions to help route them.

    • Use four wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion.

    Edit

    I used the shorter cable instead and the length is perfect. 2000mm is way too much

    Diogo Santos - Reply

    The 2000 mm cable is way too long for this endstop

    Samuel Lazea - Reply

    The routing shown on the second picture is incorrect. It needs to go through the smaller hole on the side, not the bigger hole in the middle

    Thomas - Reply

    It's been fixed, thank you for your feedback!

    Rat Rig -

    • The V-Core 4 wiring is slightly different depending on the machine variant:

    • CoreXY - Step 64

    • Hybrid - Step 65

    Edit

    Wrong step numbers- differences are shown in steps 49 and 50.

    Scott - Reply

  49. Route the Right [R] Stepper motor cable as shown. Route the Left [L] Stepper motor cable as shown. Connect the Left [L] Stepper motor cable to the lowest slot available on the Octopus Board

    • Route the Right [R] Stepper motor cable as shown.

    • Route the Left [L] Stepper motor cable as shown.

    • Connect the Left [L] Stepper motor cable to the lowest slot available on the Octopus Board

    • Connect the Right [R] Stepper motor cable to the second lowest slot available on the Octopus Board

    • Make sure the connectors are oriented correctly with their sockets. The "key" on the connector should align with the "gap" on the sockets.

    • The stepper motor wire colour order does not matter if the cable was supplied in the V-Core 4 kit.

    • Use six wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion.

    • Proceed with Step 67

    Edit

    The latest printer.cfg did not match this picture for motor connections on octopus board for hybrid machine. Follow the connections on the printer.cfg instead. In printer.cfg, directions assume you are facing the printer.

    David V - Reply

    The images have been corrected, thank you for your feedback!

    Rat Rig -

  50. This Step is only meant for the Hybrid and IDEX builds if you are building a V-Core 4 CoreXY skip this Step. Route the L Stepper motor cable as shown. Route the R Stepper motor cable as shown.

    • This Step is only meant for the Hybrid and IDEX builds if you are building a V-Core 4 CoreXY skip this Step.

    • Route the L Stepper motor cable as shown.

    • Route the R Stepper motor cable as shown.

    • Connect the Left [L] Stepper motor cable to the first slot available on the Octopus Board, counting from the bottom.

    • Connect the Right [R] Stepper motor cable in the sixth slot available on the Octopus Board, counting from the bottom.

    • The stepper motor wire colour order does not matter if the cable was supplied in the V-Core 4 kit.

    • Use three wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion.

    Edit

    The latest printer.cfg did not match this picture for motor connections on octopus board for hybrid machine. Follow the connections on the printer.cfg instead. In printer.cfg, directions assume you are facing the printer.

    David V - Reply

    The images have been corrected, thank you for your feedback!

    Rat Rig -

  51. This Step is only meant for the Hybrid and IDEX builds if you are building a V-Core 4 CoreXY skip this Step. Route the Y1 Stepper motor cable as shown. Route the Y2 Stepper motor cable as shown.

    • This Step is only meant for the Hybrid and IDEX builds if you are building a V-Core 4 CoreXY skip this Step.

    • Route the Y1 Stepper motor cable as shown.

    • Route the Y2 Stepper motor cable as shown.

    • Connect the Y1 Stepper motor cable to the second slot available on the Octopus Board, counting from the bottom.

    • Connect the Y2 Stepper motor cable in the fifth slot available on the Octopus Board, counting from the bottom.

    • The stepper motor wire colour order does not matter if the cable was supplied in the V-Core 4 kit.

    • Use three wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion.

    • Proceed with Step 67

    Edit

    "Y1" is Left and "Y2" is Right? This is somewhat confusing. Maybe differentiate with Y-L and Y-R?

    Scott - Reply

    @ratrig this path is not ideal because of the filament guide and the 2 electronic box holders. More ideal is to pass with the wire all the way to the bottom of the extrusion ( right next to the motors ) and guide the wires through the same path as the previous steppers.

    Samuel Lazea - Reply

    I see what you're saying, but, at least in the case of an enclosed system that means the wires will be in danger of rubbing against the belts in the back as the wire goes from above to below the frame bar. I'm inclined to agree with you and am going to try using those lower holes and put some wiring loom material to keep the wires away from the belts.

    Scott -

    Missing instructions on where to place wires if building without enclosure. The tabs for the electric cabinet blocks the cable routes for the hybrid stepper motors.

    Tomas - Reply

    In the second image above, the Y1 (dark blue) motor cable is shown going to the 6th connector, but it should go to the 2nd connector.

    Jim Sellon - Reply

    @ratrig is this correct ?

    Samuel Lazea -

  52. Stepper Motor Wire Front Z Steppers cables 1500mm

    • Stepper Motor Wire

    • Front Z Steppers cables 1500mm

    • Rear Z Stepper cable 1000mm

    • Stepper Motor Connector (wider connector / JST PH6P)

    • Control Board Connector (narrower connector / JST XH2.54 )

    • Make sure the connectors are oriented correctly with their sockets. The "key" on the connector should align with the "gap" on the sockets.

    • Connect all the Z Stepper motor cables, ensuring the longer 1500 mm are used for the front Z steppers and the shorter 1000 mm is used for the rear stepper motor.

    • The stepper motor wire colour order does not matter if the cable was supplied in the V-Core 4 kit.

    Edit

  53. If your bottom panel has a grommet dedicated to the Z Steppers, follow here, otherwise, skip this Step. Route the Z0 Stepper motor as shown Route the Z1 Stepper motor as shown

    • If your bottom panel has a grommet dedicated to the Z Steppers, follow here, otherwise, skip this Step.

    • Route the Z0 Stepper motor as shown

    • Route the Z1 Stepper motor as shown

    • Route the Z2 Stepper motor as shown

    • Feed all the cables through the bottom panel grommet.

    • Feed all the cables through the rear panel grommet and into the electronics enclosure

    • Connect all the cables to the octopus board as shown; Z0 - driver 5; Z1 - driver 6; Z2 - driver 7;

    • Use eighteen wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion. Four of them should be used on the vertical rear Z extrusion.

    Edit

    Quoting for helpfulness:

    The Z0 Stepper must be connecter to driver 6.

    Z0 is the front left stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.

    The Z1 Stepper must be connecter to driver 7.

    Z1 is the rear stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.

    The Z2 Stepper must be connecter to driver 8.

    Z2 is the front right stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.

    Sebastian Krzakowski - Aug 11, 2024

    Scott - Reply

    Would be good to specify also instead of Z0, Z1 and Z2 the location of the steppers like Left, Right and Middle. Would make it easier to trace cables

    Samuel Lazea - Reply

    @ratrig If the electronics box is mounted on the frame ( without enclosure ) the path is not ideal cause the wires would have to pass over the mount for electronics box. Since the electronics box is not heavy and it's not going anywhere, I would remove just the M6*12 screw and drop in T-Nut 3030 M6 and keep the plastic part on the enclosure box. This will not hinder the stability of the electronics box and will give room for the wires to be passed as shown in the picture. And then it will also look good visually ;)

    Samuel Lazea - Reply

  54. If your bottom panel has a grommet dedicated to the Z Steppers, follow here, otherwise, go back to the previous Step. Route the Z0 Stepper motor as shown Route the Z1 Stepper motor as shown

    • If your bottom panel has a grommet dedicated to the Z Steppers, follow here, otherwise, go back to the previous Step.

    • Route the Z0 Stepper motor as shown

    • Route the Z1 Stepper motor as shown

    • Route the Z2 Stepper motor as shown

    • Feed all the cables through the bottom panel grommet.

    • Feed all the cables through the rear panel grommet and into the electronics enclosure

    • Connect all the cables to the octopus board as shown; Z0 - driver 5; Z1 - driver 6; Z2 - driver 7;

    • Use eighteen wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion. Four of them should be used on the vertical rear Z extrusion.

    Edit

    Should this start with "If your back panel..."?

    (I wound up with a Batch 1 kit/bottom plate, and Batch 2 enclosure panels, so don't have either hole, oops.)

    Kenneth - Reply

  55. The Z0 Stepper must be connecter to driver 5.

    • The Z0 Stepper must be connecter to driver 5.

    • Z0 is the front left stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.

    • The Z1 Stepper must be connecter to driver 6.

    • Z1 is the rear stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.

    • The Z2 Stepper must be connecter to driver 7.

    • Z2 is the rear stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.

    Edit

    The Z0 Stepper must be connecter to driver 6.

    Z0 is the front left stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.

    The Z1 Stepper must be connecter to driver 7.

    Z1 is the rear stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.

    The Z2 Stepper must be connecter to driver 8.

    Z2 is the front right stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.

    Sebastian Krzakowski - Reply

    Thank you Sebastian! Why it's not "L", "C", and "R" is a mystery. Also @ratrig on the 400mm build, the cable for the front motors is BARELY long enough. I might be wise to reduce tension by not routing the undersides in the channels as you suggest.

    Scott -

  56. The Raspberry Pi wiring is the same regardless of the Raspberry Pi model used. Please note that all GPIOs are in the same place as well as the USB ports. Power Input +5V Power Input GND

    • The Raspberry Pi wiring is the same regardless of the Raspberry Pi model used. Please note that all GPIOs are in the same place as well as the USB ports.

    • Power Input +5V

    • Power Input GND

    • Black Jumper Wire ( Length: 500mm )

    • Red Jumper Wire ( Length: 500mm )

    • USB A to USB C Wire - Provided with the octopus board

    • The Raspberry Pi can be powered in many ways, using an external 5V power supply, via USB (power input) and via the GPIOS pins. The V-Core chooses to power the PI via the GPIOS pins as this simplifies the wiring.

    Edit

  57. Red and Black Jumper Wires ( Length: 500mm ) Red Wire- Power Output +5V on the Octopus V1.1

    • Red and Black Jumper Wires ( Length: 500mm )

    • Red Wire- Power Output +5V on the Octopus V1.1

    • Red Wire- Power Input +5V on the Raspberry Pi

    • Black Wire- Power Output GND on the Octopus V1.1

    • Black Wire- Power Input GND on the Raspberry Pi

    • USB A to USB C Cable

    • Connect the USB A Port on the Raspberry Pi and the USB C Port on the Octopus V1.1

    Edit

    The two images show different connections for the RPi power lines for where to attach on the Octopus board, The close up image shows black/negative beside the red line. The high view image shows the negative line above the red line.

    Scott - Reply

    The power wires are rather flimsy. They would be a lot better if they were both connected. This would give them support and prevent twisting

    Samuel Lazea - Reply

  58. Phaetus Rapido V2 UHF Hotend

    • Phaetus Rapido V2 UHF Hotend

    • Cut the wires with 150mm and strip 5-10mm of the end, to expose the inside conductor.

    • Cut the thermistor wires with 160mm and crimp a JST 2 connector

    • The thermistor is a resistor that strongly varies with temperature. When crimping a resistor you don't have to worry about wire order as resistors don't have polarity.

    Edit

    @ratrig Diagram is confusing. In Rapido 2 heater cables are RED and the PT1000 are BLUE. This can lead to burning of the PT1000 if people are not careful

    Samuel Lazea - Reply

    Meant to say x-rail. And watch out for automatic wire strippers with the thermistor wire, at least my Knipex cut some conductor strands as well.

    Matti - Reply

    Perhaps this could have been done before attaching the hotend to the y-rail?

    Matti - Reply

  59. Hot End Heater 24V Insert the cable ends on the designated slots and tighten the screws. After tightening the screws, pull the cable to make sure it's firmly connected. If the cable releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.

    • Hot End Heater 24V

    • Insert the cable ends on the designated slots and tighten the screws.

    • After tightening the screws, pull the cable to make sure it's firmly connected. If the cable releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.

    • Hot End Thermistor

    • Plug the connector into the designated connector.

    • The thermistor wires are very fragile, bending them past its threshold can damage the conductors within, leading to wire failure.

    • Insert the highlighted jumper to achieve more accurate temperature readings

    • Route the wires accordingly.

    Edit

    While I also have no love for JST connectors, would this not be easier all around if we took off (or didn't yet install) the EBB board? Getting the heater wires to make a right angle entry from a closed off space seems needlessly challenging. I have to think there's an easier way of getting these steps done.

    Scott - Reply

    @ratrig Diagram is confusing. In Rapido 2 heater cables are RED and the PT1000 are BLUE. This can lead to burning of the PT1000 if people are not careful

    Samuel Lazea - Reply

    This step of connecting the Rapido blue cables to the EBB board is nearly impossible with the EBB mounted. Best would be to do this before to make sure the wires sit properly and that there are no strands to create a short circuit

    Samuel Lazea - Reply

    It is really a pitty that the good pre-manufactured hotend connectors actually need to be clipped off just to put on a cheap and wobbly JST-connector. I don't get the point here. Why does RatRig not make sure the proper plugs are available on the little EBB32 board or provide a proper ready-made cable set? It is cumbersome and error-prone to crimp this stuff all by myself. Uneccessary step from my perspective.

    Markus - Reply

  60. Connect the orbiter extruder cable to the designated slot on the toolboard Route the wires accordingly.

    • Connect the orbiter extruder cable to the designated slot on the toolboard

    • Route the wires accordingly.

    Edit

  61. Hot End 4010 fan - 24V Connect the positive and negative wires to the referred slot.

    • Hot End 4010 fan - 24V

    • Connect the positive and negative wires to the referred slot.

    • Route the cable accordingly.

    • Use a zip tie to ensure the cable is secure to the toolhead body.

    Edit

  62. Cable 120mm - 3 Conductor 24AWG - JST XH2.54 male to Bare wire Micro JST 5pins provided with the EBB42 Toolboard package

    • Cable 120mm - 3 Conductor 24AWG - JST XH2.54 male to Bare wire

    • Micro JST 5pins provided with the EBB42 Toolboard package

    • Crimp the connector on the 3 wires as shown.

    • Refer to this picture to clearly show where the wires go

    Edit

    Why isn't a proper cable just part of the kit? I do not consider this much self-crimping useful if one needs to cut off good cable connectors and exchange them by something else. Error-prone and just uneccessary work. This should really come pre-manufactured.

    Markus - Reply

    My el-cheapo-but-still-reasonable one-push crimpers did not work for the microJST, so I had to use the Engineer PA-09. On PA-09, I used 1.4 for the conductor and 1.9 for the sleeve. Use the crimp connectors for the micro JST that came with EBB42, the ones for JST XH2.54 will not fit.

    Matti - Reply

  63. Warning: Check your cables. Incorrect endstop wiring can damage your board. Rat Rig Omron X endstop

    • Warning: Check your cables. Incorrect endstop wiring can damage your board.

    • Rat Rig Omron X endstop

    • Endstop 3 wire cable - Prepared previously.

    • Connect the JST3 connector to the shown slot on the toolboard.

    • Route the cable accordingly.

    Edit

  64. 4x Crimp - Molex Micro-Fit (43025 compatible)

    • 4x Crimp - Molex Micro-Fit (43025 compatible)

    • Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Male (43025-0400)

    • 3x Crimp - Molex Micro-Fit (43020 compatible)

    • Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Female (43020-0400)

    • 2x Connector - 2 Pin - JST XHP-2 - 2.54 Male

    • 4x Crimp - JST XH 2.54

    • Cable 1500mm - 3 Conductor 24AWG - JST XH2.54 to JST XH2.54

    Edit

    This step could use a bit more explanation cause it's hard to understand it all the way it's explained

    Samuel Lazea - Reply

    What is unclear to me here is the 1500 mm long cable. What do I need to do with it? It has two JST-XH2.52 connectors, fine. But what now? Clip them also off? Even in the following steps there is no explanation what exactly you want me to do. This part of the build manual is very confusing over all. I read it few times but multiple times missing explanations or some advice what to do.

    All my cables are actually twisted and hence, does not correspond to the pictures shown. It is just confusing.

    Markus - Reply

    I would suggest this diagram and the text should call out the difference between the male and female crimp connectors in a larger diagram. (My kit supplied 4x of both kinds of connectors in a single bag, and a builder unfamiliar with micro-fit might not notice the difference.)

    Kenneth - Reply

  65. Crimp the Connector - Molex Micro-Fit (43025 compatible) to all the 4028 wires The small tab must be facing upwards.

    • Crimp the Connector - Molex Micro-Fit (43025 compatible) to all the 4028 wires

    • The small tab must be facing upwards.

    • Insert the crimps inside the Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Male (43025-0400) as shown

    • 1 - 12V Red - NIDEC fan

    • 2- GND Black - NIDEC fan

    • 3- PWM Blue - NIDEC fan

    • 4- Tac White -NIDEC fan (not used with the Octopus board(

    • Insert the crimp on the connector until you hear a "Click"

    Edit

    Also, please give us extra hardware in general, especially the crimp connectors. These are very prone to error and we only have enough to get it in one shot.

    Oliver - Reply

    These crimp steps need to be done before mounting. In fact, mounting the hot end should the the last step in the chain in this case.

    Oliver - Reply

    The picture is so confusing. You need to read carefully the text and replace in your mind the colors otherwise you end up swapping wires. Also, I see no mention of cutting the existing connector from the 4028 fan @ratrig

    Samuel Lazea - Reply

    This step is so painful, it's crazy. I don't mind crimping things but I do hate to crip it in place instead of crimping it easier on a bench top. Also, it would not hurt to give 1-2 extra connectors in case someone does it wring once

    Samuel Lazea -

    Again, why all this cut off the exising connectors and crimping stuff? So many parts are delivered with a proper connector. Why does RatRig not provide the proper plugs on its EBB32 board? I don't get it. It becomes really annoying from the build experience perspective.

    Cable colors of my 4-wire fan cable does not match the picture.

    Also missing proper and EARLY hints in the mechanical kit assembly documentation that some parts (like all the parts affected by this crimping marathon) should be better prepared for wiring BEFORE the assembly of those parts. I have mounted everything as per the description and now struggle to get all those cables crimped while these parts are mounted. :(

    Markus - Reply

    As with Step 72, this step can be performed before the fan is mounted to the x-rail (and would be much easier, as the rail is in the way once it is mounted.)

    Kenneth - Reply

    More details should be provided.

    * Length of the fan-side of the cable.

    * The cable coming out of the fan has heat shrink and a small connector. Specifying what should be done with these would be preferable.

    Tomas - Reply

    The NIDEC W40S12BS2E5-57T04HF9 4028 Fan has a white wire for the Tac instead of the shown yellow wire.

    Dan OMara - Reply

  66. Cut the JST3 connectors on the Endstop cable and crimp the Molex Micro-Fit (43020 compatible) Insert them into the Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Female (43020-0400) as shown on the images The small lock piece on the connector must be facing upwards.

    • Cut the JST3 connectors on the Endstop cable and crimp the Molex Micro-Fit (43020 compatible)

    • Insert them into the Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Female (43020-0400) as shown on the images

    • The small lock piece on the connector must be facing upwards.

    Edit

  67. Use the full length of the RED and Black wires 2 Pin - JST XHP-2 - 2.54 Male

    • Use the full length of the RED and Black wires

    • 2 Pin - JST XHP-2 - 2.54 Male

    • Crimp the GND (Black) wire to the left slot on the housing

    • Crimp the +12V (RED) wire to the left slot on the housing

    • Cut the white wire with 70mm, measuring from the Molex connector

    • 2 Pin - JST XHP-2 - 2.54 Male

    • Crimp the PWM (White) wire to the left slot on the housing

    • Triple check all connections and crimps

    Edit

    Why is #3 no longer shown in blue as above?

    Scott - Reply

    So here's a confusing color matter- earlier it says the yellow (in my case white) line out from the fan is not used on the Octopus board. Then the image that follows shows a white wire coming out of position #3. That means that the blue line out from the fan in block position #3 will be what now connects to a white wire. Probably it'd be good to say so. If you are simply thinking of connectivity, you'd probably think red to red, black to black, and white to white, not white to blue which is what you're really doing with connection #3.

    Scott - Reply

    The images above could be enhanced by the use of "break lines" across the red and black wires, to indicate that they are much, much longer than what's shown in the images. In my 300mm bed size kit, I had 1000mm and 1500mm cables to choose from.

    Jim Sellon - Reply

    What cable is used in the picture? There is no explanation about which cable is meant here. Is it the cable shown in step 80 above, which already has two connectors on both ends? Do I need to also cut them off? There is no explanation.

    What is the recommended length of the white cable? It looks much shorter than the red and black ones...

    Markus - Reply

    The instruction above with the green dot reads, "Crimp the +12V (RED) wire to the left slot on the housing"

    but it should read "right slot."

    Jim Sellon - Reply

  68. Cooling 4028 fan - 12 V Connect the PWM wire to the negative pin (the one closest to the middle of the toolboard) of the shown connector. Connect the positive and negative wire to the referred slot where the 12V jumper was placed.

    • Cooling 4028 fan - 12 V

    • Connect the PWM wire to the negative pin (the one closest to the middle of the toolboard) of the shown connector.

    • Connect the positive and negative wire to the referred slot where the 12V jumper was placed.

    • Route the power cable back to the electronics enclosure and follow the piano wire previously installed.

    • Use some zip ties to clean the excess cable inside the electronics enclosure.

    • Route the PWM wire as shown.

    • IDEX ONLY Connect the 4028 cooling fan from T1 on the slot below. Ensure the jumper is set to 12V.

    Edit

    "Route the power cable back to the electronics enclosure and follow the piano wire previously installed." - this is the first reference in this guide about piano wire, not sure where it was instructed to install it.

    MoJo - Reply

  69. The power connector provided in the EBB42 toolboard box

    • The power connector provided in the EBB42 toolboard box

    • Carefully check the wire order, if the polarity is swapped, you will destroy your electronics!

    • Crimp the red and black wires on the connector as shown

    • Wire - DC Power - 18AWG RED - 1000mm

    • Wire - DC Power - 18AWG BLACK - 1000mm

    • 2x Fork Terminal - 3.7mm Insulated

    • Crimp the fork connectors as shown

    Edit

  70. Cable - USB-A to USB-C Cable 1500mm Connect the USB C port on the toolboard Connect the USB A Port on the Raspberry Pi

    • Cable - USB-A to USB-C Cable 1500mm

    • Connect the USB C port on the toolboard

    • Connect the USB A Port on the Raspberry Pi

    • Red and Black Power wires

    • Red Wire- Power Input +24V on the Toolboard and [+V] on the Power Supply

    • Black Wire- Power Input GND on the Toolboard and [-V] on the Power Supply

    • Route the cables back to the electronics enclosure and follow the piano wire previously installed - Use some zip ties to clean the excess cable inside the electronics enclosure.

    • It is imperative to make sure that the USB-C connector cannot move! Tie it down to the printed part using some zip ties.

    Edit

    The two blue arrows point to V+/- slots that already have fork terminals in them which lead to the Octopus (from step 57). The final wiring diagram (Step 87) also states to have two fork terminals in these slots.

    Is this correct?

    Pescados - Reply

  71. Ignore this Step if you are wiring the IDEX T1 toolhead Beacon Z probe USB Beacon cable

    • Ignore this Step if you are wiring the IDEX T1 toolhead

    • Beacon Z probe

    • USB Beacon cable

    • Connect the cable to the beacon and the Raspberry Pi

    • Use two zip ties to ensure the cable is secure to the toolhead body.

    • Route the cables back to the electronics enclosure and follow the piano wire previously installed.

    • Use some zip ties to clean the excess cable inside the electronics enclosure.

    • Have we mentioned how good the Beacon probe is? Just wait until you fire it up, you can find more info here.

    Edit

    Clearer details on exactly how the USB cable is routed around the zip tie mounts would be appreciated.

    Kenneth - Reply

  72. Repeat Steps 73 to 85 to complete the wiring of the second toolhead.

    • Repeat Steps 73 to 85 to complete the wiring of the second toolhead.

    Edit

  73. Bed Heater with the incorporated Thermistor. Do not mistake the bed heater wires for the bed thermistor wires. The thermistor wires are the ones with the JST 2 wire connector. The thermistor is a resistor that strongly varies with temperature. When connecting a resistor you don't have to worry about cable order as resistors don't have polarity.

    • Bed Heater with the incorporated Thermistor.

    • Do not mistake the bed heater wires for the bed thermistor wires. The thermistor wires are the ones with the JST 2 wire connector.

    • The thermistor is a resistor that strongly varies with temperature. When connecting a resistor you don't have to worry about cable order as resistors don't have polarity.

    • The magnetic sheet and heater pad will be installed later during the commissioning guide. Do not install them now.

    • Connect the Bed Thermistor to the first thermistor slot, counting from the bottom.

    • Place the heater pad next to the machine and connect only the thermistor

    • This is required to follow the guide and perform a sanity check

    Edit

    The second image above correctly shows the bed thermistor connecting to the bottom connector, but the text incorrectly states the "second thermistor slot, counting from the bottom."

    Jim Sellon - Reply

  74. Check all the cables. The connections must look like the picture. Take your time to ensure all steps are correct before powering the machine on, any mistakes may cause component malfunction or failure. This diagram is for the V-Core 4 CoreXY variant. This diagram is for the V-Core 4 Hybrid variant.

    • Check all the cables. The connections must look like the picture. Take your time to ensure all steps are correct before powering the machine on, any mistakes may cause component malfunction or failure.

    • This diagram is for the V-Core 4 CoreXY variant.

    • This diagram is for the V-Core 4 Hybrid variant.

    • This diagram is for the V-Core 4 IDEX variant.

    Edit

    The latest printer.cfg did not match this picture for motor connections on octopus board for hybrid machine. Follow the connections on the printer.cfg instead. In printer.cfg, directions assume you are facing the printer.

    David V - Reply

  75. 21x Electronics Wire Guide Clips Click them into place once all the cables are routed inside of the Electronics Wire Guides.

    • 21x Electronics Wire Guide Clips

    • Click them into place once all the cables are routed inside of the Electronics Wire Guides.

    • Close the clips carefully as you might pinch/break the cables.

    Edit

  76. Before proceeding with any AC 230V wire connections, it is crucial to understand the risks involved. Alternating Current (AC) at 230V / 110V is a high voltage that can cause severe injury or even death if not handled correctly. This type of electrical work is highly dangerous and should only be performed by a licensed professional.

    • Before proceeding with any AC 230V wire connections, it is crucial to understand the risks involved. Alternating Current (AC) at 230V / 110V is a high voltage that can cause severe injury or even death if not handled correctly. This type of electrical work is highly dangerous and should only be performed by a licensed professional.

    • Click here to access the V-Core 4 Main wiring diagram. This will guide you through the Installation of the IEC and high voltage circuit

    • V-Core 4 400 and 500 ONLY 110V

    • Before connecting the power cable, inspect its rating. Ensure the cable is labeled with the correct voltage and current ratings for your electrical installation. If you are uncertain about which power cable to use, seek advice from a certified electrician. Rat Rig recommends using a power cable rated for 20A.

    Edit

    Yes, I trip over this section, too and at the end of the AC Mains Wiring guide there is an confusing section, too. "Warning! V-Core 4 400 and 500 - 110V ONLY". It mediated, that the sizes of 400 an 500 sizes are only operating with 110V. But thats not the case, for my technical understanding. The keenovo heatbeds and the SSR can handle the 230V, well. I'm right?

    The headline is intended for the following note(s), only.

    So my advise is to change these two lines for exp. to "Warning only for V-Core 4 400 and 500 - 110V"

    Please @ratrig give us a a short statemanet/confirmation about that.

    Jacob Schubert - Reply

    @ratrig in the main AC wiring I see only one AC cable going to the SSR. That is the brown L coming from the source. What cable should be in the second connection on the SSR?

    Samuel Lazea - Reply

    @ratrig

    I also checked further and I saw this:

    Step 2 - Bed wiring

    Complete the wiring connections for the bed heater, follow here.

    But if you follow the link there is no mention nor picture of the bed wiring.

    Samuel Lazea -

    What is this information: V-Core 4 400 and 500 ONLY 110V?

    Without an explanation, this is totally useless information. In Austria we have standard 230V, and the power supply unit only allows the input to be switched. If I set this to 110V and insert the plug into the socket on our 230V mains supply, the power supply unit burns out. This information makes absolutely no sense, is confusing and DANGEROUS! If I were to do it the way you write it here, at least the power supply unit would burn out, and in the worst case, other parts of the printer would also be damaged.

    Daniel - Reply

    I think that's meant to be "IF V-Core 4 400 and 500 ONLY 110V" you should double/triple check the voltage input switch, and use a power cable rated for 20A. I've read some folks on the Discord server mentioning the 400/500 units can help you trip your breakers :)

    Scott -

  77. Cable Sleeve - Black 9.5mm split braided sleeve Route the sleeve along the piano wire and hide the cables+piano wire inside of it. Insert it on the electronics enclosure for a cleaner look!

    • Cable Sleeve - Black 9.5mm split braided sleeve

    • Route the sleeve along the piano wire and hide the cables+piano wire inside of it.

    • Insert it on the electronics enclosure for a cleaner look!

    • Use zip ties to secure the umbilical to the toolhead and frame.

    • TIP: Use zip ties to secure the PTFE tube to the wiring sleeve for a cleaner look. Do not stretch the PTFE tube, as this can cause the filament to bind inside and reduce the machine's performance.

    Edit

  78. This step is optional, this sleeve will enhance the stealth look of your machine, at the cost of not being able to see the filament inside the PTFE tube. Cable Sleeve - Black 4mm split braided sleeve (SCW-003)

    • This step is optional, this sleeve will enhance the stealth look of your machine, at the cost of not being able to see the filament inside the PTFE tube.

    • Cable Sleeve - Black 4mm split braided sleeve (SCW-003)

    • Carefully wrap the PTFE tube with the smaller 4mm braided sleeve, for a stealth look!

    • It's known that if you subscribe to Rat Rig TV and use the PTFE sleeve, your V-Core 4 will increase its acceleration by +50k mm/s2!

    Edit

  79. Edit

    @ratrig since I can't comment on the commissioning guide I'll write this here, the link that is supposed to show how to wire the bed heater is the same as the AC wiring, so there are no instructions on how to actually wire up the bed heater

    Udrea Razvan - Reply

Finish Line

5 other people completed this guide.

Author

with 3 other contributors

Rat Rig

Member since: 07/10/2020

30,596 Reputation

105 Guides authored

0 Comments

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 127

Past 7 Days: 971

Past 30 Days: 4,566

All Time: 15,150