-
-
BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1
-
Raspberry Pi
-
USB A to USB C Cable
-
Insert this jumper, allowing the board to receive power from the Raspberry Pi. Remove all other jumpers from the board.
-
5V Power supply - smartphone charger for example (minimum 3 AMP is recommended)
-
It is heavily recommended that you flash your board and make sure it is detected in the configurator before you plug in your stepper drivers and start connecting your wiring. - Check RatOs documentation
-
Remove the highlighted jumper as it will no longer be required.
-
If your board flashed successfully you can proceed with the guide.
-
-
-
If your kit has a 120mm fan skip this Step and keep following the guide.
-
If your kit has 50x15 axial fans, Identify your electronics enclosure kit
-
If your corners are aluminium, you have the aluminium enclosure - Click here to follow the dedicated guide.
-
You can also check your kit SKU- HW3810MK
-
If your corners are printed parts, you have the steel enclosure, Click here to follow the dedicated guide.
-
You can also check your kit SKU- HW3916MK
-
-
-
vc4_enclosure_alum_lid
-
vc4_enclosure_alum_base
-
vc4_enclosure_alum_bottom
-
vc4_enclosure_alum_left
-
vc4_enclosure_alum_top
-
vc4_enclosure_alum_right
-
-
-
vc4_electronics_corner
-
28x M3 Heat Insert
-
31x M3x6 Countersink screw
-
32x M3x6 Button head screw
-
4x M4x10 Countersink screw
-
2x M4x12 Countersink screw
-
4x Hex Standoffs 35mm
-
-
-
vc4_enclosure_alum_base
-
2x M3x6 Countersink screw
-
vc4_electronics_corner
-
Thread the M3x6 countersink screws to the heat inserts on the vc4_electronics_corner.
-
Assemble the components as shown, and ensure the vc4_enclosure_steel_base is correctly oriented and the countersunk screw is inserted into the countersink groove.
-
Repeat the previous Steps and assemble the remaining corners.
-
-
-
vc4_enclosure_steel_top and right
-
4x M3x6 Button Head Screw for each panel
-
Assemble the enclosure components as shown, making sure the panels are correctly oriented.
-
-
-
vc4_enclosure_steel_left
-
vc4_enclosure_steel_bottom
-
4x M3x6 Button Head Screw for each plate
-
Assemble the enclosure components as shown, making sure the panels are correctly oriented.
-
-
-
15A fuse
-
Fuse Holder
-
IEC
-
2x M3x12 Cap Head Screws
-
2x M3 locking hex nut
-
-
-
IEC
-
2x M3x12 Countersink screw
-
Fuse holder
-
2x M3 Locking nut
-
Fuse holder nut
-
-
-
4x M2.5x6 Cap Head Screw
-
4x M3x8 Cap Head Screw
-
26x M3 Heat Insert
-
vc4_adapter_octopus printed part
-
2x vc4_adapter_rpi printed part
-
3x vc4_cable_guide_5 assembly
-
vc4_cable_guide_4 assembly
-
vc4_cable_guide_cross
-
-
-
Insert the countersink screws into the indicated holes, ensuring that the picture is oriented with the countersink holes facing you.
-
vc4_adapter_octopus assembly
-
2x vc4_adapter_rpi assembly
-
Insert the screws from the bottom, passing them through the panel to tighten them into the heat inserts on the supports.
-
-
-
Insert the countersink screws into the indicated holes, ensuring that the picture is oriented with the countersink holes facing you.
-
10x M3x6 Countersink screws
-
vc4_cable_guide_cross
-
vc4_cable_guide_4 assembly
-
3x vc4_cable_guide_5 assembly
-
Insert the screws from the bottom, passing them through the panel to tighten them into the heat inserts on the cable guide parts.
-
-
-
Insert the countersink screws into the indicated holes, ensuring that the picture is oriented with the countersink holes facing you.
-
5x M3x6 Countersink screws
-
5x Hex standoff - steel - M3x35
-
-
-
Fan grille 120mm
-
Fan axial 120x15
-
4x Self tapping screw - Fam - 12mm
-
-
-
4x Self tapping screw - Fam - 12mm
-
Fan grille 120mm
-
Fan axial 120x15
-
Insert the screws from the top, through the fan grille and the enclosure lid and thread them to the fan body.
-
-
-
SSR relay
-
2x M4 Locking hex nut
-
Raspberry pi
-
Octopus V1.1
-
Power Supply Weho - 250Watt 24V - Fanless
-
-
-
Electronics Enclosure assembly
-
SSR 40A480VAC Solid State Relay
-
2x M4x12 Countersink screws
-
Gently open the SSR Relay tabs to access the mounting holes.
-
2x M4 Nylon Locking Nut
-
Tighten the screws to secure the SSR Relay to the electronics enclosure
-
-
-
BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1
-
Remove all the jumpers on the board before starting. Insert the jumpers onto the highlighted pins.
-
UART mode - placing these jumpers will allow for tuning and controlling options on the printer interface.
-
USB-C Power option - with this jumper the board can be powered via USB-C. This will allow you to compile and download the firmware directly to the motherboard using DFU mode, ideal for testing the board.
-
Voltage Selection - Each fan output can be set to one of three different voltages (5V, 12V or 24V) depending on the jumper positions. The third image exemplifies where the pins must be placed to achieve different voltages.
-
The voltage selections used in the guide are for the electronics kit provided by Rat Rig. If using different fans, ensure the voltages are set correctly to avoid damage to components.
-
-
-
BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1 with the jumpers from the previous Step
-
5x TMC2209 Stepper Driver for CoreXY
-
7x TMC2209 Stepper Driver for Hybrid
-
Orient the TMC2209 Stepper Drivers with the two upper pins to the outside of the board.
-
Make sure the drivers are inserted all the way to ensure a reliable connection.
-
Insert the TMC2209 drivers slowly while checking pin alignment to avoid damaging the components.
-
These two drivers are only used on the Hybrid and IDEX configurations
-
-
-
BigTreeTech Octopus V1.1 Motherboard
-
4x M3x8 Button head screw
-
Insert the M3x8 Cap Head Screws through the Octopus V1.1 Board and tighten it to the vc4_adapter_octopus assembly
-
Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the board and the printed parts
-
-
-
Raspberry Pi 4B
-
M2.5x6 Cap Head Screws
-
Insert the M2.5x6 Cap Head Screws through the Raspberry Pi Board and tighten it to the vc4_adapter_rpi_assembly
-
Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts
-
-
-
Power Supply Weho - 250Watt 24V - Fanless
-
4x M4x6 Countersink Screw
-
Mount the power supply as shown, and tighten the screws to secure it to the electronics enclosure.
-
-
-
Jump to Step 29 If you don't have a rear panel.
-
Panel Assembly - Rear
-
1x Adhesive backed foam sealing tape
-
4x vc4_grommet_V1
-
17x T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6
-
20x M6x12 Cap Head Screw
-
17x M6 Washer
-
-
-
Panel Assembly - Rear
-
M6x12 Cap Head Screw
-
M6 Washer
-
T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6
-
Insert a M6x12 Screw into a M6 washer through the rear panel, and loosely tighten a T-Nut.
-
Double check the panel orientation, an easy way to make sure is to orient the panel in a position where the marked hole is more to the left than to the right.
-
Insert a vc4_grommet_V1 in each designated hole from the same side as the t-nuts
-
-
-
Install the Adhesive backed foam sealing tape to the outside of the V-Core 4 frame, to ensure a good isolation between the frame and the panel.
-
-
-
Install the rear panel to the V-Core 4 frame
-
Tighten the screws around the panel, to secure it to the frame.
-
Do not over-tighten the screws as you can damage the panel.
-
-
-
Electronics enclosure
-
4x M6x12 Cap Head Screw
-
4x M6 Nylon Locking Nut
-
Insert an M6x12 Screw into the electronics enclosure and the rear panel, and tighten it to an M6 Nylon locking nut, to secure the assembly
-
Do not overtighten the screws as you can damage the panel.
-
-
-
This guide will next tackle the wiring of all the components, which can be a long task. Take a break and have some food.
-
Continue on Step 37 as the next steps will cover the non-enclosed V-Core 4 version
-
-
-
4x M6x12 Cap Head Screw
-
T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6
-
vc4_electronics_mount_upper
-
vc4_electronics_mount_lower
-
-
-
vc4_electronics_mount_upper
-
M6x12 Cap Head Screw
-
T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6
-
Repeat the previous Steps and prepare another assembly.
-
-
-
vc4_electronics_mount_lower
-
M6x12 Cap Head Screw
-
T-Nut Drop In for 3030 - M6
-
Repeat the previous Steps and prepare another assembly.
-
-
-
Electronics enclosure
-
2x Upper mounting assemblies from Step 45
-
2x M6 Nylon Locking Nut
-
2x M6x12 Cap Head Screw
-
Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts
-
-
-
Lower mounting assemblies from Step 46
-
Lightly tighten the screws to secure the assemblies to the V-Core 4 frame, do not fully tighten them as you will need to readjust the height on the next steps.
-
-
-
Electronics enclosure assembly
-
Place the mounting printed parts on top of the 3030 extrusion as shown.
-
Adjust the electronics enclosure from left to right to get it centred on the V-Core 4 frame
-
Tighten the M6x12 Screws to secure the assembly.
-
Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts
-
-
-
Adjust the printed parts up and down on the extrusion to align the M6 holes with the ones on the electronics enclosure.
-
Align the holes
-
Insert the M6 Nylon Locking nuts and the M6x12 Cap Head Screws from the other side. Tighten the assembly.
-
Finally, tighten the M6x12 Cap Head Screws on the frame.
-
Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts
-
-
-
This guide will next tackle the wiring of all the components, which can be a long task. Take a break and have some food.
-
-
-
16x Fork Terminal - 3.7mm Insulated
-
4x Wire - DC Power - 16AWG RED - 270mm
-
4x Wire - DC Power - 16AWG BLACK - 270mm
-
-
-
Wire - DC Power - 16AWG RED/Black - 270mm
-
Strip 5-7mm of isolation on both ends.
-
Crimp a Fork Terminal - 3.7mm Insulated on each end.
-
Repeat the previous Step and prepare 4 red wires and 4 black wires
-
-
-
Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270mm)
-
Insert one end on the second slot (numbered 2 on the board) and tighten the screw.
-
Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ +V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.
-
Black Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270mm)
-
Insert one end on the first slot (numbered 1 on the board) and tighten the screw.
-
Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ -V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.
-
After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
-
Route the wires accordingly.
-
-
-
Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)
-
Insert one end on the fourth slot (numbered 4 on the board) and tighten the screw.
-
Insert the other end on the middle slot of the [ +V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.
-
Black Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)
-
Insert one end on the third slot (numbered 3 on the board) and tighten the screw.
-
Insert the other end on the middle slot of the [ -V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.
-
After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
-
Route the wires accordingly.
-
-
-
Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)
-
Insert one end in the sixth slot (numbered 6 on the board) and tighten the screw.
-
Insert the other end in the left slot of the [ +V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.
-
Black Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)
-
Insert one end on the fifth slot (numbered 5 on the board) and tighten the screw.
-
Insert the other end on the left slot of the [ -V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.
-
After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
-
Route the wires accordingly.
-
-
-
Red Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)
-
Insert one end on the seventh slot (numbered 7 on the board) and tighten the screw.
-
Insert the other end on the SSR Relay positive terminal (the supplied SSR Relay has the positive terminal next to the red indicator LED)
-
Black Wire with two Fork terminals (Length: 270 mm)
-
Insert one end on the last slot (numbered 8 on the board) and tighten the screw.
-
Insert the other end on the SSR Relay positive terminal.
-
It's crucial that the polarity is correct, incorrect wiring will result in severe damage. Double-check your connections using the images. If you have any doubts about your SSR Relay connections please check the supplier datasheet.
-
After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
-
-
-
Before moving on to the next step, check all the wires. The connections must look like the picture.
-
Double check the polarity is correct with the previous Steps. Always place the wire with POSITIVE ( + V ) polarity in the positive slot on Board and the NEGATIVE ( -V ) with the negative slots on the Board. Incorrect polarity will kill the board
-
-
-
Cable - XH JST 2 Pin - 22AWG Short Patch Cable - 150mm
-
Fan 50x15 Axial
-
Connect all the fans to the Rat Rig 3-to-1 XH Splitter - 2 Pin - V1
-
Ensure the Jumper is set to 24V
-
Using the small extension cable, connect the splitter board to the octopus, the connector should be inserted on the third fan connector.
-
-
-
Y endstop already installed on the V-Core 4
-
Cable 2000mm - 3 Conductor 24AWG - JST XH2.54 to JST XH2.54
-
Connect the cable to the endstop module as shown
-
-
-
32x vc4_wire_clip
-
To install a wire clip, insert one end into the extrusion and rotate it until it clicks into place.
-
Later in the guide, some wires will be routed inside the 3030 extrusions. These clips help retain the wires within the extrusion slots.
-
-
-
Warning: Check your cables. Incorrect endstop wiring can damage your board.
-
Rat Rig Omron Y endstop
-
Endstop 3 wire cable - length: 2000 mm
-
Connect the JST3 connector to the shown slot on the octopus board.
-
Route the cable accordingly. Place the cables inside the extrusions to help route them.
-
Use four wire clips prepared in Step 46 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion.
-
-
-
The V-Core 4 wiring is slightly different depending on the machine variant:
-
CoreXY - Step 49
-
Hybrid - Step 50
-
-
-
Route the Right [R] Stepper motor cable as shown.
-
Route the Left [L] Stepper motor cable as shown.
-
Connect the Left [L] Stepper motor cable to the lowest slot available on the Octopus Board
-
Connect the Right [R] Stepper motor cable to the second lowest slot available on the Octopus Board
-
Make sure the connectors are oriented correctly with their sockets. The "key" on the connector should align with the "gap" on the sockets.
-
The stepper motor wire colour order does not matter if the cable was supplied in the V-Core 4 kit.
-
Use six wire clips prepared in Step 46 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion.
-
Proceed with Step 52
-
-
-
This Step is only meant for the Hybrid and IDEX builds if you are building a V-Core 4 CoreXY skip this Step.
-
Route the L Stepper motor cable as shown.
-
Route the R Stepper motor cable as shown.
-
Connect the Left [L] Stepper motor cable to the first slot available on the Octopus Board, counting from the bottom.
-
Connect the Right [R] Stepper motor cable in the sixth slot available on the Octopus Board, counting from the bottom.
-
The stepper motor wire colour order does not matter if the cable was supplied in the V-Core 4 kit.
-
Use three wire clips prepared in Step 46 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion.
-
-
-
This Step is only meant for the Hybrid and IDEX builds if you are building a V-Core 4 CoreXY skip this Step.
-
Route the Y1 Stepper motor cable as shown.
-
Route the Y2 Stepper motor cable as shown.
-
Connect the Y1 Stepper motor cable to the second slot available on the Octopus Board, counting from the bottom.
-
Connect the Y2 Stepper motor cable in the fifth slot available on the Octopus Board, counting from the bottom.
-
The stepper motor wire colour order does not matter if the cable was supplied in the V-Core 4 kit.
-
Use three wire clips prepared in Step 46 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion.
-
Proceed with Step 52
-
-
-
Stepper Motor Wire
-
Front Z Steppers cables 1500mm
-
Rear Z Stepper cable 1000mm
-
Stepper Motor Connector (wider connector / JST PH6P)
-
Control Board Connector (narrower connector / JST XH2.54 )
-
Make sure the connectors are oriented correctly with their sockets. The "key" on the connector should align with the "gap" on the sockets.
-
Connect all the Z Stepper motor cables, ensuring the longer 1500 mm are used for the front Z steppers and the shorter 1000 mm is used for the rear stepper motor.
-
The stepper motor wire colour order does not matter if the cable was supplied in the V-Core 4 kit.
-
-
-
If your bottom panel has a grommet dedicated to the Z Steppers, follow here, otherwise, skip this Step.
-
Route the Z0 Stepper motor as shown
-
Route the Z1 Stepper motor as shown
-
Route the Z2 Stepper motor as shown
-
Feed all the cables through the bottom panel grommet.
-
Feed all the cables through the rear panel grommet and into the electronics enclosure
-
Connect all the cables to the octopus board as shown; Z0 - driver 5; Z1 - driver 6; Z2 - driver 7;
-
Use eighteen wire clips prepared in Step 46 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion. Four of them should be used on the vertical rear Z extrusion.
-
-
-
If your bottom panel has a grommet dedicated to the Z Steppers, follow here, otherwise, go back to the previous Step.
-
Route the Z0 Stepper motor as shown
-
Route the Z1 Stepper motor as shown
-
Route the Z2 Stepper motor as shown
-
Feed all the cables through the bottom panel grommet.
-
Feed all the cables through the rear panel grommet and into the electronics enclosure
-
Connect all the cables to the octopus board as shown; Z0 - driver 5; Z1 - driver 6; Z2 - driver 7;
-
Use eighteen wire clips prepared in Step 61 at the marked locations. Evenly distribute them along the extrusion. Four of them should be used on the vertical rear Z extrusion.
-
-
-
The Z0 Stepper must be connecter to driver 5.
-
Z0 is the front left stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.
-
The Z1 Stepper must be connecter to driver 6.
-
Z1 is the rear stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.
-
The Z2 Stepper must be connecter to driver 7.
-
Z2 is the rear stepper, when looking at the machine from the front.
-
-
-
The Raspberry Pi wiring is the same regardless of the Raspberry Pi model used. Please note that all GPIOs are in the same place as well as the USB ports.
-
Power Input +5V
-
Power Input GND
-
Black Jumper Wire ( Length: 500mm )
-
Red Jumper Wire ( Length: 500mm )
-
USB A to USB C Wire - Provided with the octopus board
-
The Raspberry Pi can be powered in many ways, using an external 5V power supply, via USB (power input) and via the GPIOS pins. The V-Core chooses to power the PI via the GPIOS pins as this simplifies the wiring.
-
-
-
Red and Black Jumper Wires ( Length: 500mm )
-
Red Wire- Power Output +5V on the Octopus V1.1
-
Red Wire- Power Input +5V on the Raspberry Pi
-
Black Wire- Power Output GND on the Octopus V1.1
-
Black Wire- Power Input GND on the Raspberry Pi
-
USB A to USB C Cable
-
Connect the USB A Port on the Raspberry Pi and the USB C Port on the Octopus V1.1
-
-
-
Phaetus Rapido V2 UHF Hotend
-
Cut the wires with 150mm and strip 5-10mm of the end, to expose the inside conductor.
-
Cut the thermistor wires with 160mm and crimp a JST 2 connector
-
The thermistor is a resistor that strongly varies with temperature. When crimping a resistor you don't have to worry about wire order as resistors don't have polarity.
-
-
-
Hot End Heater 24V
-
Insert the cable ends on the designated slots and tighten the screws.
-
After tightening the screws, pull the cable to make sure it's firmly connected. If the cable releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
-
Hot End Thermistor
-
Plug the connector into the designated connector.
-
The thermistor wires are very fragile, bending them past its threshold can damage the conductors within, leading to wire failure.
-
Insert the highlighted jumper to achieve more accurate temperature readings
-
Route the wires accordingly.
-
-
-
Connect the orbiter extruder cable to the designated slot on the toolboard
-
Route the wires accordingly.
-
-
-
Hot End 4010 fan - 24V
-
Connect the positive and negative wires to the referred slot.
-
Route the cable accordingly.
-
Use a zip tie to ensure the cable is secure to the toolhead body.
-
-
-
Cable 120mm - 3 Conductor 24AWG - JST XH2.54 male to Bare wire
-
Micro JST 5pins provided with the EBB42 Toolboard package
-
Crimp the connector on the 3 wires as shown.
-
Refer to this picture to clearly show where the wires go
-
-
-
Warning: Check your cables. Incorrect endstop wiring can damage your board.
-
Rat Rig Omron X endstop
-
Endstop 3 wire cable - Prepared previously.
-
Connect the JST3 connector to the shown slot on the toolboard.
-
Route the cable accordingly.
-
-
-
4x Crimp - Molex Micro-Fit (43025 compatible)
-
Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Male (43025-0400)
-
3x Crimp - Molex Micro-Fit (43020 compatible)
-
Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Female (43020-0400)
-
2x Connector - 2 Pin - JST XHP-2 - 2.54 Male
-
4x Crimp - JST XH 2.54
-
Cable 1500mm - 3 Conductor 24AWG - JST XH2.54 to JST XH2.54
-
-
-
Crimp the Connector - Molex Micro-Fit (43025 compatible) to all the 4028 wires
-
The small tab must be facing upwards.
-
Insert the crimps inside the Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Male (43025-0400) as shown
-
1 - 12V Red - NIDEC fan
-
2- GND Black - NIDEC fan
-
3- PWM Blue - NIDEC fan or Brown - Sanyo fan
-
4- Tac White -NIDEC fan (not used with the Octopus board)
-
Insert the crimp on the connector until you hear a "Click"
-
-
-
Cut the JST3 connectors on the Endstop cable and crimp the Molex Micro-Fit (43020 compatible)
-
Insert them into the Connector - Molex Micro-Fit - 4 Pin - Female (43020-0400) as shown on the images
-
The small lock piece on the connector must be facing upwards.
-
-
-
Use the full length of the RED and Black wires
-
2 Pin - JST XHP-2 - 2.54 Male
-
Crimp the GND (Black) wire to the left slot on the housing
-
Crimp the +12V (RED) wire to the left slot on the housing
-
Cut the white wire with 70mm, measuring from the Molex connector
-
2 Pin - JST XHP-2 - 2.54 Male
-
Crimp the PWM (White) wire to the left slot on the housing
-
Triple check all connections and crimps
-
-
-
Cooling 4028 fan - 12 V
-
Connect the PWM wire to the negative pin (the one closest to the middle of the toolboard) of the shown connector.
-
Connect the positive and negative wire to the referred slot where the 12V jumper was placed.
-
Route the power cable back to the electronics enclosure and follow the piano wire previously installed.
-
Use some zip ties to clean the excess cable inside the electronics enclosure.
-
Route the PWM wire as shown.
-
IDEX ONLY Connect the 4028 cooling fan from T1 on the slot below. Ensure the jumper is set to 12V.
-
-
-
The power connector provided in the EBB42 toolboard box
-
Carefully check the wire order, if the polarity is swapped, you will destroy your electronics!
-
Crimp the red and black wires on the connector as shown
-
Wire - DC Power - 18AWG RED - 1000mm
-
Wire - DC Power - 18AWG BLACK - 1000mm
-
2x Fork Terminal - 3.7mm Insulated
-
Crimp the fork connectors as shown
-
-
-
Cable - USB-A to USB-C Cable 1500mm
-
Connect the USB C port on the toolboard
-
Connect the USB A Port on the Raspberry Pi
-
Red and Black Power wires
-
Red Wire- Power Input +24V on the Toolboard and [+V] on the Power Supply
-
Black Wire- Power Input GND on the Toolboard and [-V] on the Power Supply
-
Route the cables back to the electronics enclosure and follow the piano wire previously installed - Use some zip ties to clean the excess cable inside the electronics enclosure.
-
It is imperative to make sure that the USB-C connector cannot move! Tie it down to the printed part using some zip ties.
-
-
-
Ignore this Step if you are wiring the IDEX T1 toolhead
-
Beacon Z probe
-
USB Beacon cable
-
Connect the cable to the beacon and the Raspberry Pi
-
Use two zip ties to ensure the cable is secure to the toolhead body.
-
Route the cables back to the electronics enclosure and follow the piano wire previously installed.
-
Use some zip ties to clean the excess cable inside the electronics enclosure.
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Have we mentioned how good the Beacon probe is? Just wait until you fire it up, you can find more info here.
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Repeat Steps 73 to 85 to complete the wiring of the second toolhead.
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Bed Heater with the incorporated Thermistor.
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Do not mistake the bed heater wires for the bed thermistor wires. The thermistor wires are the ones with the JST 2 wire connector.
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The thermistor is a resistor that strongly varies with temperature. When connecting a resistor you don't have to worry about cable order as resistors don't have polarity.
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The magnetic sheet and heater pad will be installed later during the commissioning guide. Do not install them now.
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Connect the Bed Thermistor to the first thermistor slot, counting from the bottom.
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Place the heater pad next to the machine and connect only the thermistor
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This is required to follow the guide and perform a sanity check
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Check all the cables. The connections must look like the picture. Take your time to ensure all steps are correct before powering the machine on, any mistakes may cause component malfunction or failure.
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This diagram is for the V-Core 4 CoreXY variant.
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This diagram is for the V-Core 4 Hybrid variant.
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This diagram is for the V-Core 4 IDEX variant.
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21x Electronics Wire Guide Clips
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Click them into place once all the cables are routed inside of the Electronics Wire Guides.
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Close the clips carefully as you might pinch/break the cables.
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Before proceeding with any AC 230V wire connections, it is crucial to understand the risks involved. Alternating Current (AC) at 230V / 110V is a high voltage that can cause severe injury or even death if not handled correctly. This type of electrical work is highly dangerous and should only be performed by a licensed professional.
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Click here to access the V-Core 4 Main wiring diagram. This will guide you through the Installation of the IEC and high voltage circuit
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Warning for users in countries with 110V Mains
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Before connecting the power cable, inspect its rating. Ensure the cable is labeled with the correct voltage and current ratings for your electrical installation. If you are uncertain about which power cable to use, seek advice from a certified electrician. Rat Rig recommends using a power cable rated for 20A.
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Cable Sleeve - Black 9.5mm split braided sleeve
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Route the sleeve along the piano wire and hide the cables+piano wire inside of it.
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Insert it on the electronics enclosure for a cleaner look!
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Use zip ties to secure the umbilical to the toolhead and frame.
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TIP: Use zip ties to secure the PTFE tube to the wiring sleeve for a cleaner look. Do not stretch the PTFE tube, as this can cause the filament to bind inside and reduce the machine's performance.
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This step is optional, this sleeve will enhance the stealth look of your machine, at the cost of not being able to see the filament inside the PTFE tube.
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Cable Sleeve - Black 4mm split braided sleeve (SCW-003)
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Carefully wrap the PTFE tube with the smaller 4mm braided sleeve, for a stealth look!
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It's known that if you subscribe to Rat Rig TV and use the PTFE sleeve, your V-Core 4 will increase its acceleration by +50k mm/s2!
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Continue with the next guide:
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Enclosure for V-Core 4: 13. Enclosure
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If you are not using the enclosure, continue with the commissioning guide
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