Introduction
This Guide is a beta version, if you have any suggestions please leave them in the comments below.
Some of the fasteners and wires used during this guide are not currently included with the V-Core kit and need to be sourced separately. Rat Rig intends to offer a complete electronics kit in the future.
By default, the recommended electronics panel is available for download here, it's named: " panel_electronics_300.dxf".
This guide is meant to assist you during the Electronics assembly of the V-Core 3.1 standard kit. All cable lengths mentioned in the guide are for the V-Core 3.1 300x300. At the beginning of the guide you will find a table containing all the different lengths of cables specified by the machine size. It is advised to practice crimping and soldering before the wiring assembly. Bad crimps or soldering jobs are the most common fault in electronics malfunctions. Never plug or unplug any components while the printer is powered on, this will lead to damaged components and even safety hazards. Avoid bending the cables into tight corners as you can damage them. If you do not feel confident with a certain step ask someone experienced to assist you. Any mistakes during this assembly will permanently damage the components. The guide contains a lot of warnings meant to keep you alert and ensure a successful build!
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Please note: All measurements provided in this guide are based upon building a 300x300 V-Core 3.1.
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If you are building a different size, the following adjustments can be made to the stated cable lengths.
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The mains power of the circuit must be done by a professional. Mains electricity can kill or severely injure people and cause damage to property.
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On the right side of the power supply there is a switch.
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This switch needs to be set to the mains voltage in your country. Either 115V (most common in the USA / Canada), or 230V.
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Setting this to the incorrect input voltage may destroy the power supply and anything connected to it.
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Weho LRS 350 W Power Supply
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4x M4x6mm Cap Head Screws
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Mount the Power Supply with the M4x6mm Cap Head Screws
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Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the panel.
The description states both 6mm and 10mm M4 screws. I believe the 10mm version is wrong and 6mm M4 screws should be used to mount as the depth of hole in the power supply is 3.5mm and with a 3mm thick electronics panel a 6mm screw will fit with a 0.5mm clearance and not bottom out on the power supply housing.
Correct, the screw must be M4x6mm, it was a typing error, thanks for your feedback!
Rat Rig -
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BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1
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6x TMC2209 Stepper Driver
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12x Jumpers
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Remove all the jumpers on the board before starting. Insert the jumpers on to the highlighted pins.
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UART mode - placing these jumpers will allow for tuning and controlling options on the printer interface.
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USB-C Power option - with this jumper the board can be powered via USB-C. This will allow you to compile and download the firmware directly to the motherboard using DFU mode, ideal for testing the board.
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Voltage Selection - Each fan output can be set to one of three different voltages (5V, 12V or 24V) depending on the jumper positions. The third image exemplifies where the pins must be placed to achieve different voltages.
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The voltage selections used in the guide are for the electronics kit provided by Rat Rig. If using different fans, ensure the voltages are set correctly to avoid damage to components.
I agree, this is terribly confusing. It needs to be re-written to tie up the text with what's shown in the photos.
The third image is just a reference picture showing what voltages can be achieved by placing the jumpers in different positions. A small change to the description has been made, hopefully it is clear now. Thank you for your feedback
Images 2 and 3 show different jumper settings that again differ from the text "Voltage Selection". This is confusing.
I assume the image 3 shows an example of the possible jumper settings (5, 12, 24 Volts) and Image 2 shows 1x12V and 2x24V. The written text however talks about 1x12V (Part cooling fan) and 1x24V (hotend fan) and refers to the third image.
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BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1
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Raspberry Pi
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USB A to USB C Cable
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5V Power supply - smartphone charger for example (minimum 3 AMP is recommended)
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It is heavily recommended that you flash your board and make sure it is detected in the configurator before you plug in your stepper drivers and start connecting your wiring. - Check RatOs documentation
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Remove the highlighted jumper as it will no longer be required.
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If your board flashed successfully you can proceed with the guide.
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Carefully insert the TMC2209 Stepper Drivers onto the slots.
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Orient the TMC2209 Stepper Drivers with the two upper pins to the outside of the board.
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Make sure the drivers are inserted all the way to ensure a reliable connection.
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Insert the TMC2209 drivers slowly while checking pin alignment to avoid damaging the components.
Strongly recommended elsewhere in the guide to I stall and update pi/ octopus firmware ( or other control boards before installing stepper drivers) — see bottom of this guide for link
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6x TMC2209 Driver Heat Sink
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Gently wipe down the TMC2209's top surface with a cloth and alcohol to improve adhesion with the heat sink.
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Peel the tape off the bottom of the TMC2209 driver heat sink and centre them on the TMC2209 drivers.
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BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1
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4x M3x16mm Cap Head Screw
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4x M3x5mm Nylon Spacer
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4x M3 Locking Hex Nut
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Mount the BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1 with the fasteners in the shown order.
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Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the panel.
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SSR Relay
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2x M4x10mm Cap Head Screw
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2x M4 Locking Hex Nut
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Mount the SSR Relay with the fasteners in the shown order.
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Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the panel.
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The electronics assembly is the same regardless of the Raspberry Pi model used.
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Raspberry Pi
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4x M2.5x16mm Cap Head Screw
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4x M3x5mm Nylon Spacer
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4x M2.5 Locking Hex Nut
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Mount the Raspberry Pi with the fasteners in the shown order.
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Place the Raspberry Pi so the USB ports are on the left.
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Take care not to over-tighten the screws as you can damage the panel.
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This STEP should have been completed here: 01. Frame Assembly
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If you didn't mount the wire guides during the frame assembly, you need to remove the Electronics subframe in order to install the wire guides.
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3x Electronics Wire Guide Body
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6x M6x12mm Cap Head Screw
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6x 3030 Drop-in T-Nut - M6
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15x Electronics Wire Guide Clip
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Store the Electronics Wire Guide Clips aside for now, they will be needed later.
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Loosely thread the 3030 T-Nuts onto the M6x12 screws. Do not tighten them at this point.
If you are not assembling a 300mm printer, you could have a different number of Electronics Wire Guide Body and Electronics Wire Guide Clip!!
If you have a 500mm you'll have 5 Electronics Wire Guide Body and 25 Electronics Wire Guide Clip
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Panel Collar Nut
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Panel Collar Thread
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Mount the Panel Collar in the shown hole.
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Take care not to over-tighten the Panel Colar as you can damage the parts and the panel.
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At this stage, the electronics panel should look like the image.
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If any component is oriented differently, correct the assembly now.
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There are two lengths of wires for each colour, carefully read the next steps. [These must be self-sourced for the time being]
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Red Wire - Used for POSITIVE Connections on the 24 V circuit.
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Fork Terminals - Connecting on the Board and the Power Supply.
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Black Wire - Used for NEGATIVE Connections on the 24 V circuit.
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Lengths:
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250 mm - Board-to-Power Supply
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200 mm - Board-to-SSR Relay
What do you mean with "there are..." I don't have these type of cables in my kit (Standard Kit v3.1 300) Am I missing something? Where should they be?
You must source them yourself, the complete electronics kit hasn't been released yet.
What is the correct wire gauge for all these?
The standard build should use 1.5mm gauge on the 24V circuit.
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Black Wire (Length: 250 mm)
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Insert one end on the first slot (numbered 1 on the board) and tighten the screw.
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Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ - V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.
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After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
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Route the wire accordingly.
Does step 16 and 17 also use 1.5mm or 16 gauge wire?
The standard build should use 1.5mm gauge on the 24V circuit.
Rat Rig -
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Red Wire (Length: 250 mm)
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Insert one end on the second slot (numbered 2 on the board) and tighten the screw.
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Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ + V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.
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After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
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Route the wire accordingly.
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Black Wire (Length: 250 mm)
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Insert one end on the third slot (numbered 3 on the board) and tighten the screw.
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Insert the other end on the midle slot of the [ - V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.
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After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
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Route the wire accordingly.
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Red Wire (Length: 250 mm)
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Insert one end on the fourth slot (numbered 4 on the board) and tighten the screw.
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Insert the other end on the middle slot of the [ + V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.
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After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
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Route the wire accordingly.
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Black Wire(Length: 250 mm)
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Insert one end on the fifth slot (numbered 5 on the board) and tighten the screw.
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Insert the other end on the left slot of the [ - V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.
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After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
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Route the wire accordingly.
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Red Wire (Length: 250 mm)
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Insert one end on the sixth slot (numbered 6 on the board) and tighten the screw.
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Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ + V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.
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After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
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Route the wire accordingly.
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Red Wire (Length: 200 mm)
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Insert one end on the seventh slot (numbered 7 on the board) and tighten the screw.
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Insert the other end on the SSR Relay positive terminal.
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It's crucial that the polarity is correct, incorrect wiring will result in severe damage. Double-check your connections using the images. If you have any doubts about your SSR Relay connections please check the supplier datasheet.
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After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
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Route the wire accordingly.
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Black Wire (Length: 200 mm)
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Insert one end on the eighth slot (numbered 8 on the board) and tighten the screw.
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Insert the other end on the SSR Relay negative terminal.
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It's crucial that the polarity is correct, incorrect wiring will result in severe damage. Double-check your connections using the images. If you have any doubts about your SSR Relay connections please check the supplier datasheet.
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After tightening the screws, pull the wire to make sure it's firmly connected. If the wire releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
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Route the wire accordingly.
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Before moving on to the next step, check all the wires. The connections must look like the picture.
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Double check the polarity is correct with the previous Steps. Always place the wire with POSITIVE ( + V ) polarity in the positive slot on Board and the NEGATIVE ( -V ) with the negative slots on the Board. Incorrect polarity will kill the board
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Stepper Motor Wire
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There are different lengths of cables, please read the next steps carefully.
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Stepper Motor Connector (wider connector / JST PH6P)
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Control Board Connector (narrower connector / JST XH2.54 )
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Make sure the connectors are oriented correctly with their sockets. The "key" on the connector should align with the "gap" on the sockets.
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Make sure the cables don't touch the TMC2209 heat sinks as they get hot and can damage the wires, leading to component failure.
The first batch Vcores (3.0) were having cables with JST PHP6P connectors on the stepper motor side and Dupont connectors on the controller board side. The correct plug in of the Dupont connectors (when you're not changing them for JST XH2,54's) is from left to right (on the Octopuses) (left is where the covered power connector is): Black, Green, Red, Blue. The Black cable is facing the Y left stepper plug and the blue cable is facing the Z stepper plugs.
This is accurate, the first kits did come with dupont connectors, it doesn't matter much how you insert them on the board, worst case scenario the stepper direction is inverted. You can correct this on the printer.cfg very easily. https://os.ratrig.com/docs/configuration...
Rat Rig -
Cables purchased from RatRig have unkeyed connectors on the end that are inserted into the controller board. What is the correct orientation for the unkeyed cable?
Do your cables have a Dupont connector? when did you purchase them? Just trying to understand what cables you have.
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Refer to Step 20 on how to wire a Stepper motor.
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Stepper Motor Wire ( Length: 1m)
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Stepper Motor Connector (wider connector / JST PH6P)
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Control Board Connector (narrower connector / JST XH2.54) - First connector counting from the bottom.
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Route the cable accordingly.
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If you are building a different V-Core 3.1 size please refer to STEP 1 for the cable length.
Given that this is on the right I am assuming it is based on looking at the printer from the front?
The picture is based on looking at the printer from the rear, using the standard electronics panel found here.
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Refer to Step 20 on how to wire a Stepper motor.
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Stepper Motor Wire ( Length: 1m)
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Stepper Motor Connector (wider connector / JST PH6P)
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Control Board Connector (narrower connector / JST XH2.54) - Second connector counting from the bottom.
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Route the cable accordingly.
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If you are building a different V-Core 3.1 size please refer to STEP 1 for the cable length.
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Refer to Step 20 on how to wire a Stepper motor.
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Stepper Motor Wire ( Length: 1m)
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Some Extruders like the LGX Lite and the Orbiter have an embodied cable. Ignore the designated cable above.
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Stepper Motor Connector (wider connector / JST PH6P)
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Control Board Connector (narrower connector / JST XH2.54) - third connector counting from the bottom.
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Route the cable accordingly.
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If you are building a different V-Core 3.1 size please refer to STEP 1 for the cable length.
Step 20 is wrong. 20 is part of 24v wiring. Right one is ?..
Sorry, not sure I understood your question, could you explain further?
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Refer to Step 20 on how to wire a Stepper motor.
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Stepper Motor Wire ( Length: 1.5m )
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Stepper Motor Connector (wider connector / JST PH6P)
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Control Board Connector (narrower connector / JST XH2.54) - seventh connector counting from the bottom.
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Route the cable accordingly. (Bottom View) Place the cables inside the extrusions to help route them.
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If you are building a different V-Core 3.1 size please refer to STEP 1 for the cable length.
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Refer to Step 20 on how to wire a Stepper motor.
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Stepper Motor Wire ( Length: 1m )
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Stepper Motor Connector (wider connector / JST PH6P)
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Control Board Connector (narrower connector / JST XH2.54) - Eighth connector counting from the bottom.
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Route the cable accordingly. (Bottom View) Place the cables inside the extrusions to help route them.
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If you are building a different V-Core 3.1 size please refer to STEP 1 for the cable length.
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Refer to Step 20 on how to wire a Stepper motor.
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Stepper Motor Wire ( Length: 1.5m )
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Stepper Motor Connector (wider connector / JST PH6P)
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Control Board Connector (narrower connector / JST XH2.54) - Last connector counting from the bottom.
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Route the cable accordingly. (Bottom View) Place the cables inside the extrusions to help route them.
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If you are building a different V-Core 3.1 size please refer to STEP 1 for the cable length.
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The Hot End fan is a 4010 - 24V while the Cooling fan is a 4028 - 12 V, read the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the Fans. You will fry your fan if you don't supply the correct voltage!
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Hot End 4010 Fan - 24V
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24V Power connector (JST2)
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Cooling 4028 Fan - 12 V
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12V Power connector (JST2 - crimping required)
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PWM Cable - Pulse width modulation is a modulation technique that generates variable-width pulses, in this case it controls the supplied voltage to the fan regulating it's speed more efficiently.
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On Delta and Nidec fans the blue wire is the PWM wire, on Sanyo's it's the brown wire. If you're unsure, refer to your fan's datasheet as you will need to crimp a JTS2 as shown.
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The part cooling 4028 fan cable requires an extension. Either solder, or use connectors, to extend it by 450mm with 3-core cable.
Here is my configuration for the cooling fan “SANYO DENKI 12V 9GAX0412P3S001” with 4 wires:
+ red = J56
- black = J56
PWN (control) brown = J50 (PA8) > must be reversed in the printer.cfg to "!PA8"
RPM (pulse sensor) yellow = DIAG4 (PG12)
(Jumper is set only on J56 to 12V)
printer.cfg
[fan]
pin: !PA8
max_power: 1.0
shutdown_speed: 0
cycle_time: 0.010
hardware_pwm: False
kick_start_time: 0.100
off_below: 0.0
tachometer_pin: PG12
tachometer_ppr: 2
tachometer_poll_interval: 0.0015
#enable_pin:
Have a good meal,
Well, according to the documentation, I have a different problem with the Octopus H723. Unfortunately, I would have to buy a different 4028 fan. The PWM output needs to be inverted. There is a voltage on the PWM pin of the fan. If this is pulled to GND, the fan regulates from 100% down to 0%. When connected, the fan has 0% at 100% in Klipper and vice versa. One idea here would be a voltage divider, resistor, BC547 transistor to GND. So that the fan stays off. Can you change and invert this option in Klipper yourself?
The 4028 fan that came with my kit is a Protechnic MGT4012WB-W28, which also has 4 wires: black, red, blue and yellow. How is it supposed to be wired?
Judging from Ratrig's store, it looks like the wire colors are the same as the Delta's, that is, "Black - 0V, Red - 12V, Blue - PWM (Control), Yellow - Sensor (Speed-Tachometer)": https://ratrig.com/fan-4028-axial-protec...
The supplied Nidec fan has red, black, blue and white. No mention of how to wire the four wire fans that Ratrig supply very frustrating.
Hi! All 4028 fans supplied by RatRig have 4 wires, the guide only shows 3 to avoid confusion since you only need to connect 3 cables, 12V GND and PWM. The Nidec fans use Red for 12V, Black for GND and Blue for PWM as mentioned on the product page. It should be present on the guide step like the Delta and Sanyo, Thanks for your feedback it will be fixed right away! Enjoy the rest of your build!
The part cooling 4028 fan cable requires an extension. Either solder, or use connectors, to extend it by 450mm with 3-core cable.
This seems odd to me. My fan has a cable length of about 100mm, when extending by 450mm I end up with 550mm which seems very short for a V-300? In comparison the X Endstop cable is 2000mm and it is also attached to the print head.
I'd recommend to use a 1000mm extension at least. So it roughly has the same length as the probe recommendation for a V-300
The Sanyo has a Yellow wire. The Datasheet calls this a sensor wire. Should this wire remain unconnected?
On Delta fans the blue wire is the PWM wire, The yellow wire is for RPM monitoring, by default it's unused.
I'm looking at my fan from Ratrig right now. It's a model from Delta Electronics. It has 4 wires. Red, black, yellow, blue. I would like to know if the yellow wire is used or unused.
On the Sanyo, it's the brown wire for the PWM
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Cooling 4028 fan - 12 V
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Connect the PWM wire to the negative pin (the one closest to the outside of the board) of the first connector on the board.
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Connect the positive and negative wire to the referred slot where the 12V jumper was placed.
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Check once again if the jumper is placed in the right position to supply 12V to the Fan - Step 3
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On boards with fan voltage selection (such as the Octopus boards), the voltage doesn't matter. The selector only changes which source the positive pin is connected to. We don't use the positive pin, we use the negative, which is connected through a MOSFET.
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Please read this carefully. You will fry your fan if you don't supply the correct voltage!
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Route the cable accordingly.
Here is a small mistake: "Check once again if the jumper is placed in the right position to supply 12V to the Fan - Step 3"
But it's in Step 5...
A new colour has been added to show which jumper this section "Check once again if the jumper is placed in the right position to supply 12V to the Fan" refers too, Thanks for your feedback!
Rat Rig -
The picture shows a jumper on J50... no jumper on J50 (!PA8) is required for the “SANYO DENKI 12V 9GAX0412P3S001”!
Only with J56 does the jumper have to be set to 12V.
If all the connections are done following this guide and the stock RatOs config is used for the machine, the presence of the J50 is irrelevant.
Rat Rig -
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Hot End 4010 fan - 24V
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Connect the positive and negative wire to the referred slot where the 24V jumper was placed.
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Check once again if the jumper is placed in the right position to supply 24V to the Fan - Step 3
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Route the cable accordingly.
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Before moving on to the next step, check all the cables. The connections must look like the picture. Take your time to ensure the previous steps are correct.
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On some fans (verified on Sanyo Denki's) disconnecting the ground pin while 12V is connected to the fan will cause a high voltage on the tachometer pin, this can fry your mcu. Do NOT connect the tachometer pin if you do this
In this picture the cooling fan jumper should be in the 12V position as it is shown in step 32.
A highlight has been added to the jumpers, thank you for your suggestion.
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Hot End Heater
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The Heater Cable is connected via a screw terminal so there is no need for a dedicated connector.
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The heater is a resistor, notice that when connecting it you don't have to worry about cable order as resistors don't have polarity.
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Hot End Thermistor
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Thermistor Connector (JST2)
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The thermistor is a resistor that strongly varies with temperature. When connecting a resistor you don't have to worry about cable order as resistors don't have polarity.
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Hot End Heater 24V
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Insert the cable ends on the designated slots and tighten the screws.
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After tightening the screws, pull the cable to make sure it's firmly connected. If the cable releases/moves when pulling, reinsert it and tighten the screw.
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Route the cable accordingly.
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Hot End Thermistor
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Plug the connector into the designated connector.
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Route the wires accordingly.
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The thermistor wires are very fragile, bending them past its threshold can damage the conductors within, leading to wire failure.
What is the threshold? How much bending is acceptable?
It really depends on the cable strength, the thermistor wires are generally fragile so we advise not to stretch them too much and keep them as stress-free as possible, generally, you want to avoid more than 80º-90º bends if the cable isn't being pulled/stretched at all otherwise the cable will be permanently damaged.
Rat Rig -
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Warning: Check your cables. Incorrect endstop wiring can damage your board. If your kit isn't from the latest iteration, it may contain different endstop cables.
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2x End Stop Body
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End Stop Cable:
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X End Stop - Length: 2m
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Y End Stop - Length: 1m
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If you are building a different V-Core3.1 size please refer to STEP 1 for the cable length.
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JST3 Connector
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Warning: Check your cables. Incorrect endstop wiring can damage your board. If your kit isn't from the latest iteration, it may contain different endstop cables.
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Connect the JST3 connector to the lowest slot on the left.
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X Endstop Body
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X End Stop Cable ( Length: 2m )
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Route the cable accordingly.
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If you are building a different V-Core 3.1 size please refer to STEP 1 for the cable length.
Are the colors of the wires in the diagram reversed? Should it not be white, black then red (left to right)? The JST3 cables I have are wired this way. Please help clarify. Thanks.
Just switch the ends and you will be good. Look carefully and you will notice that the wires are reversed at the ends.
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Warning: Check your cables. Incorrect endstop wiring can damage your board. If your kit isn't from the latest iteration, it may contain different endstop cables.
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Connect the JST3 connector to the lowest slot available on the left.
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Y Endstop Body
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Y End Stop Cable ( Length: 1m )
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Route the cable accordingly. Place the cables inside the extrusions to help route them.
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If you are building a different V-Core 3.1 size please refer to STEP 1 for the cable length.
Connect the JST3 connector to the lowest slot on the left.
This should actually read Connect the JST3 connector to the second lowest slot on the left, above the X Endstop connector.
Thank you for your feedback!
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Probe
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Cable ( Length: 2m )
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Dupont Connector
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The provided probe doesn't come with a Dupont connector. You will have to crimp the dupont connector. The cable can be cut to length before crimping the dupont connector ( Advised Length: 1m for the V-Core 3.1 300x300 ).
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If you are building a different V-Core 3.1 size please refer to STEP 1 for the cable length.
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Probe Cable Sequence
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Pay attention to the wire colours as a mistake in the sequence will damage the probe.
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Route the cable accordingly.
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If you are building a different V-Core 3.1 size please refer to STEP 1 for the cable length.
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Bed Heater with the incorporated Thermistor.
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Do not mistake the bed heater wires for the bed thermistor wires. The thermistor wires are the ones with the JST 2 wire connector.
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The thermistor is a resistor that strongly varies with temperature. When connecting a resistor you don't have to worry about cable order as resistors don't have polarity.
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The magnetic sheet and heater pad will be installed later during the commissioning guide. Do not install them now.
Even though the actual install of the bed heater is postponed until the commissioning (https://docs.ratrig.com/commissioning-gu...), the bed thermistor still has to be plugged in. The bed heater can be placed somewhere convenient.
The heatercables do not need to be plugged in, though.
I can't seem to find any instructions on where to connect the bed heater power. I assume it's to the relay?
I think this part is left to the user to figure out because they don’t give us any of the mains power instructions. one way to power it would be the hot or positive side goes straight to the relay and the ground side to the converter, but I have seen people power their beds separately because some of them can pull enough amps when combined with the rest of the printer to trip some breakers in 120V outlets
Michael -
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Connect the Bed Thermistor to the slot right bellow the Hot End Thermistor.
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Place the heater pad next to the machine and connect only the thermistor
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This is required to follow the guide and perform a sanity check
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Check all the cables. The connections must look like the picture. Take your time to ensure all steps are correct before powering the machine on, any mistakes may cause component malfunction or failure.
The Pinda wires colors are incorrect here. The correct wiring is in the Pinda Section - Black/Brown/Blue white is unused.
Correct, the white wire should in fact be black on the standard super pinda probe supplied by RatRig. Thank you for your feedback!
Rat Rig -
Dont forget to ground your SSR (on the mounting points/screws) and the bed or you will get capacitive coupling. This means your bed will be a capacitor, even when the bed is off (but printer plugged in), and have mains voltage in regards to your grounded frame (although with very low current).
For the mains wiring, check these two guides:
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The Raspberry Pi wiring is the same regardless of the Raspberry Pi model used. Please note that all GPIOs are in the same place as well as the USB ports.
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Power Input +5V
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Power Input GND
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2x Black Jumper Wire ( Length: 250mm )
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2x Red Jumper Wire ( Length: 250mm )
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USB A to USB C Wire ( Length: 350mm )
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The Raspberry Pi can be powered in many ways, using an external 5V power supply, via USB (power input) and via the GPIOS pins. The V-Core chooses to power the PI via the GPIOS pins as this simplifies the wiring.
The text to the orange dot says 2x Red Jumper wire. The orange arrow is pointing to a black wire. It therefore appears that the text to the right of the orange dot needs to be updated to read '2x Black Jumper Wire'
It was a publishing Error, Thank you for your feedback!
Rat Rig -
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Red Jumper Wire ( Length: 250mm )
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Power Input +5V on the Raspberry Pi
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Power Output +5V on the Octopus V1.1
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Route the cable accordingly.
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Make sure the wires don't touch the TMC2209 heat sinks as they get hot and can damage the wires, leading to component failure.
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Black Jumper Wire ( Length: 250mm )
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Power Input GND on the Raspberry Pi
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Power Output GND on the Octopus V1.1
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Route the cable accordingly.
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Make sure the wires don't touch the TMC2209 heat sinks as they get hot and can damage the wires, leading to component failure.
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The Raspberry Pi is very sensitive to voltage variations. It's advised to run 4 power cables in order to keep the supplied power more consistent.
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Red Jumper Wire ( Length: 250mm )
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Power Input +5V on the Raspberry Pi
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Power Output +5V on the Octopus V1.1
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Route the cable accordingly.
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Make sure the wires don't touch the TMC2209 heat sinks as they get hot and can damage the wires, leading to component failure.
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The Raspberry Pi is very sensitive to voltage variations. It's advised to run 4 power cables in order to keep the supplied power more consistent.
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Black Jumper Wire ( Length: 250mm )
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Power Input GND on the Raspberry Pi
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Power Output GND on the Octopus V1.1
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Route the cable accordingly.
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Make sure the wires don't touch the TMC2209 heat sinks as they get hot and can damage the wires, leading to component failure.
Found this to be helpful as well. https://pi4j.com/1.3/pins/rpi-4b.html
It's not clear which GPIO pin on the RPi is should be connected to the Octopus ground. It would be clearer if the pin number on the RPi was specifically stated.
There’s a clearer picture on step 47
Michael -
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USB A to USB C Cable [ Length: 350mm ]
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USB A Port on the Raspberry Pi
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USB C Port on the Octopus V1.1
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Route the cable accordingly.
Important: The Octopus V1.1 board and a Pi4 only works with the original USB cable that came in the box.
Otherwise the following error message will appear:
klippy.log
mcu 'mcu': Unable to open serial port: [Errno 2] could not open port /dev/btt-octopus-11: [Errno 2] No such file or directory: '/dev/btt-octopus-11'
moonraker.log
[klippy_connection.py:_check_ready()] - mcu 'mcu': Unable to connect
Should the jumper on J68 be removed at this point? If true, then it would be helpful to builders to receive a reminder to remove it at this point.
The jumper must be removed in step 6 , upon successfully flashing the Board
Rat Rig -
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Zip Ties
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Harness all the cable groups with the Zip Ties.
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Tighten all zip ties carefully as you might pinch/break the cables.
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Rat Rig recommends using a Cable Sleeve to wrap the Tool Head wiring harness, you can get it here.
The kits do not come with this sleeving, and it isn't listed on the BOM either.
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Electronics Wire Guide Clip set aside on STEP 9
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Click them into place once all the cables are routed inside of the Electronics Wire Guides.
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Close the clips carefully as you might pinch/break the cables.
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The ADXL is now included in the optional electronics kit.
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The most commonly used accelerometer is the ADXL 345, RatOS has a built-in configuration.
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Ethernet cable, CAT6 or superior, is recommended to improve signal stability.
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Wire the ADXL with the ethernet cable, it's required to solder the wires to the sensor and crimp dupont connectors on the other end.
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Make sure to follow the wiring diagram carefully as switching a wire will damage the sensor.
Some consistency here would be good the build guide shows the MCU with the drivers on the left and when we get to the ADXL section the drivers are on the right which could be confusing when it come to wiring.
Super helpful, without your comment I'd have done a mess
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![There are two lengths of wires for each colour, carefully read the next steps. [These must be self-sourced for the time being]](https://d3t0tbmlie281e.cloudfront.net/igi/ratrig/RdERjwijKPKDMqdv.medium)
![Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ - V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.](https://d3t0tbmlie281e.cloudfront.net/igi/ratrig/qS6v4OXRxagdgJUH.medium)
![Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ + V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.](https://d3t0tbmlie281e.cloudfront.net/igi/ratrig/inKxONvBOOXholCU.medium)
![Insert the other end on the midle slot of the [ - V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.](https://d3t0tbmlie281e.cloudfront.net/igi/ratrig/babU5YF4VGSToZRC.medium)
![Insert the other end on the middle slot of the [ + V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.](https://d3t0tbmlie281e.cloudfront.net/igi/ratrig/eCNQLEu6ZPDlnFok.medium)
![Insert the other end on the left slot of the [ - V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.](https://d3t0tbmlie281e.cloudfront.net/igi/ratrig/VlVsqvQsySxbhoUU.medium)
![Insert the other end on the right slot of the [ + V ] section on the Power Supply and tighten the screw.](https://d3t0tbmlie281e.cloudfront.net/igi/ratrig/rSmJpqoPiaV1FMJp.medium)
![USB A to USB C Cable [ Length: 350mm ]](https://d3t0tbmlie281e.cloudfront.net/igi/ratrig/AFGFkPJOdkpITvRt.medium)
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6 Comments
In Steps 22 and 23
Can you possibly post a close screen of the endstop plugged in and then the board? The wiring notation is a bit confusing with the images provided
An up-close picture has been added to step 39 to help identify the cables on the endstop module. Thank you for your suggestion
Can you please add the wiring for the ADXL345? Thank you
It will be added in the future, thank you for your suggestion
As the Introduction states the following items I had to buy as they do not come with the kit;
4 x M4x6mm cap head screw (power supply)
4 x M4x10mm cap head screw (SSR relay)
8 x M4 locking hex nuts
4 x M3x16mm cap head screw (octopus)
4 x M2.5x16mm cap head screw (pi)
4 x M2.5 locking hex nut
mouserig - Reply